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Fred Becky's Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Fred Becky
Page Views: 1,115
Submitted By: Suzy Stoke on Aug 17, 2015

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Top of P2 (Tom Wright and Molly Chambers)


Fred Becky hard-man route! Off-Widthy, leaning-chimney, licheny, splitter cracks, flakes, ADVENTURE route. Arguably the best view of Warbonnet and Watchman's tower in the Cirque.

Not for the faint of heart, Alpine Pirates drinking whiskey and practicing hand-stacking technique probably got the FA on this route.

Did i love it? Did i hate it? It's growing on me with time.... my partner and I did this route car-to-car in around 36 hours for a "weekend trip" from Salt Lake. Oy Vey.

Crux is either P1 or P3, you decide...if you stay on route that is.


Walk along Wolf's Head trail as it branches off the south side of Pingora until you get to a slabby/flowery ramp. Follow the ramp along the base of Wolf's head, some class 4 traversing required to get to the base. Climb starts directly below the "Thumb" looking spire of Wolf's head.

Getting Down: Two 70's get you to the bottom in three long yet beautiful rappels. Beware of rock fall when you pull the rope, lots of loose blocks and places your rope can get stuck in a flake.


Bring doubles of most sizes (C3,X4,C4). 3 natural anchors and 3 sling-alpine rock stations.

No bolts, I wish there were bolts, I wish there were semi-safe rappels. Three rappels I thought I might die from pulling out the flake or chalk-stone which was barely wedged into the crack slung with decade old webbing. I'm thinking about going back and drilling bolted rap stations, is that kosher in the Winds?

  • Molly and I started singing old folk songs out loud to get our minds off the death defying rappels, good thing we are both relatively light girls..

Sidenote: There was a fixed #10 Stopper and someone left a new .75 cam around P2 & P3.

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By Ty Gittins
From: bozeman
Jan 3, 2016

not sure about adding rappel bolts to an established route that is historic...could detract from the adventurous quality of not only this route but also the east ridge (would this offer an easy way to bail?)...I would try and contact the guidebook author or other prominent locals before retrobolting.
By Josh Warfield
Aug 3, 2016

Is this different from the Beckey Route listed as "South Face Left" on MP? The Bechtel guide has only one Beckey Route and it's a 5.8, matching the grade on that page.

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