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Freckles and No Lipstick 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 955
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Apr 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Climbs bolts up face/cracks to anchors.


5 feet right (downhill) from Ten B at a face with seams and a bolt 12 feet up.


Bolts, standard rack

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By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Apr 20, 2012

Not sure why there is a bolt next to the crack. This isn't Europe you know.....
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 26, 2012

I agree Nick. I just added some info to the main page to indicate this isn't traditional ethic in the Adirondacks.
By Jim Lawyer
May 23, 2012

I'm guessing that the high bolt is for stick clipping. In this case, perhaps they thought the need to stick clip overrode the no-bolts-next-to-cracks ethic?

While I too disagree with this approach, I don't think it's appropriate to call them "inexperienced", or say that they're "doing whatever the hell they want". The developers of this cliff are thoughtful route planners, and have worked extremely hard to make a nice cliff. Think hundreds of hours of scrubbing!

I recommend contacting the route setters, show appropriate appreciation for their hard work, and have a productive discussion about their choices. Maybe you can convince them to change it.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 28, 2012

Jim, if you're ever at Lost T check out the bolted traverse at the start of:

Fwiw, I don't know or know who the bolters for this area are. I can only make assumptions based on observations. If things were done 'properly' 3 of these climbs wouldn't be raising any eyebrows.
By Jim Lawyer
May 29, 2012

I thought we were talking about Freckles, not The Dike. Anyway, to locate the FAers, you could start here. Should be pretty easy to locate several of these people, as it's a small community.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Aug 5, 2012

TR'd this and it's a nice climb, probably worth another star. Has a couple tricky spots that were not obvious attacking it straight on.
By Gunkiemike
Aug 28, 2012

I found this to be significantly harder than Little Kisses. And, for the record, I was happy to stick clip the first bolt.

Edit - ah ha! That's because it's not 5.9 any longer (a hold had broken off).
By ChapelPondGirl
From: Keene, NY
Oct 16, 2016

As in some other routes on this cliff, the notion of putting stick a clip bolt high enough of the ground to protect the opening moves seems to cheapen the experience. there is adequate gear to protect the opening moves of all of these climbs, provided one is proficient at placing gear at that given grade. It seems like artificially removing that challenge makes it easier for people to not have to consider protection until they are well off the ground. This may be the route setters intent, but it saddens me because these are all predominantly traditional lines, and that is part of the challenge of a traditional rock climb.

I sort of feel like if you want to make it safe, put in an extra bolt, instead of the crazy high stick clip.

But as Jim stated, they have clearly put in a lot of work here, and created some really fun climbing opportunities. However, the base of the cliff seems to have been aggressively clear cut...hmmmm.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 17, 2016

ChapelPondGirl, you obviously didn't get the memo above that your (contrary) opinion should never be expressed publicly. ;-)

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