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Uberschmidt TR 
Wave Mechanics TR 
Wobbly Dihedral T 

Freaky Face 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tommy Deutchler
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: John W. Knoernschild on Jul 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Rudy on the opening moves of "Freaky Face&quo...


This is a classic climb. A face climb with 2 variations. The 5.10a being the rightmost climb. There is a 5.8 variation on the left of the face.


30 ft to the right of curving crack. Just before the bluff turns to the east.


There is not many spots to place pro on this climb.

Photos of Freaky Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Gentleman giving it a TR burn.
The Gentleman giving it a TR burn.
Rock Climbing Photo: John Knoernschild on Freaky Face
John Knoernschild on Freaky Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta.
Rock Climbing Photo: Freaky Face 5.10a
BETA PHOTO: Freaky Face 5.10a

Comments on Freaky Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 3, 2008

FA ?? Steve seems to have a pretty good memory. What do you think Steve?
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jul 6, 2008

john ,my memory is losing it on this one ....I beleive it was 1st done by a young tommy d.
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Oct 20, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The right hand side is definitely harder than 5.10a, the guidebook says 5.10d and I would have to agree.

Left side is a fun little 5.8
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun little climb, and surprisingly has good gear if you find it right. Straight up the face we figured was in the 5.9 range.
By waxisgood
From: Milwaukee, WI
Jun 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

very good gear and a wonderful climb.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Definitely a well protected lead with the right gear. All the gear is there but you just can't fathom it being there from dow below! Give this route a shot. Start on left side and traverse right about halfway up and continue straight up for 5.9. For 5.10+ don't traverse right and just fire straight up along the left side.
By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Jul 14, 2013

The oak tree at the base of "Swillbillies" has a dead limb pointing toward "Freaky Face". There is an active bee's nest inside the dead limb ... a couple of people got stung yesterday.

Doesn't seem to effect "Swillbillies."
By Jack C.
From: Calgary, AB
Aug 1, 2015

Laughable 10d. I led this with decent micro cams and some peenuts without any trouble. I'd say the middle of the face is more like 5.8. Admittedly I didn't punch to the top, it looks like I met up with the top of the Swillbillies crack.
Anyways, I thought it was a blast and if you know me I'm not the most confident trad climber. So get on it!

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