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(6) Main Cliff
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2Trad4U T,S 
Day of Atonement T 
Eternal Buffalo, The T 
Freak Freely T 
Happy Crack T 
Hollow Victory T 
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) T 
Lonesome Winner, The T 
Naughty and Nice T 
Oracle T 
Solid Gold T 
Urbaby's Daddy T 
Wushu Roof T 

Freak Freely 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Coe and Jim Opdycke 4/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 102
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 19, 2010  with updates from Topher Dabrowski and 3 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Freak Freeky


This route is located just right of the 3 obvious bolts of LONESOME WINNER.

Start up left of the main crack line and then traverse 5' right below a small roof. An optional direct start can be protected from the ground with a small nut and "ups" the grade a notch or two. Regardless how you get started, follow the main crack feature through its various contortions to a large flake. Move up and slightly right pulling on good holds past the flake and into a dihedral groove. Continue up the groove and directly up to the top anchors.

The original line continued to the top of the cliff and used a tree belay and a walk off.


Microcams .4-.75"
Cams .5-1.25"
1 set of nuts

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By Topher Dabrowski
May 25, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The first piece of pro is currently 20' up. The rock on the way up to that piece can be somewhat fragile as I experienced a foot hold that unexpectedly broke off. I managed to catch myself with one hand and luckily avoided a ground fall.

The climbing up to the crux is about 5.9 and we climbed with the following rack as this route has plenty of small placements.

Camalot/X4 Sizes
One each from 0.2 - 1.0, 4.0
1 Set of Nuts

The direct start is a good boulder problem and with a solid small nut placement that can be made from the ground (if you are tall enough) you can keep yourself off the ground.
By Topher Dabrowski
Jun 15, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Today a set of top anchors and rap rings was added to the route. No more weird traverse to adjacent route's anchors to get down. I have jumped on the bigger blocks and nothing is moving so I'd say it is good to go. We also did a bunch of gardening and pruning as well.

You are welcome!
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Jun 15, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Enjoyable route, especially the 2nd half. I used cams from .1-3"

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