REI Community
The Quarry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afternoon Delight 
Ankle Wrecker 
Banquet T,S 
Big Phallic, The 
Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher T 
Bowels, The T 
Comer Culo 
Crap Crags T 
Depression  T 
Eastern Heart S 
Elephantiasis S 
Finger Wrecker 
Frank's Tame Years T 
Frank's Wild Years T 
Gnome, The T 
Kleptocracy S 
Koolaid T,TR 
Marry Me, Becky T 
Moby Dick 
Mummy, The T 
Ode to the Lowball 
Offwidth Bulge T 
One Night T 
Pocket Rocket 
Recession 2016 S 
Recession Arete S 
Scotland 'Wales' 
Shark Jaw T 
Sharkcicle T 
Short Tour, The T 
Silver Bullet T 
Something to Do 
South Arête 
Southwest Face 
Stimulus S 
Tough Love T 
Warm Up Crack T 
Whale, The 
Unsorted Routes:

Frank's Wild Years 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Hank Caylor
Season: Winter
Page Views: 6,091
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Alex looking at Frank's Wild Years. Photo: Copyri...


This was named after the album by the amazing and legendary Tom Waits....

The leftmost of the three main lines, Frank's Wild Years climbs a crack just left of the prow to a pumpy rising hand traverse. This leads to a cramped rest in the corner, and then the crux -- a few campus moves on jugs. There is an unclippable fixed wire here that is designed to keep the rope out of the crack -- please do not remove it. Above this a no hands rest preceeds a final awkward lieback up slightly lower quality rock to a bolted anchor.


Double set of cams, wires, and a very small cam (blue Alien was almost too big) protects the crux well.

Photos of Frank's Wild Years Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The only "good" rest on the lower sectio...
The only "good" rest on the lower sectio...
Rock Climbing Photo: Top half of Frank's Wild Years.
Top half of Frank's Wild Years.
Rock Climbing Photo: The lower part.  Lots of finger locks.
The lower part. Lots of finger locks.
Rock Climbing Photo: My friend Moose standing beneath Frank's Wild Year...
My friend Moose standing beneath Frank's Wild Year...

Comments on Frank's Wild Years Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 14, 2008

First half fun and weird. bit loose getting to the anchors, the route could have ended at the ledge. But I won't complain going another 15 feet over the awkward bulge.
By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

My understanding was that the inception, conception, and FA of this route was 100% Mr. Hankey.
By Brett Brotherton
From: Arvada, CO
Mar 12, 2011

The fixed stopper to keep the rope out of the crack is gone! I was able to reach down from the ledge and plug a red C3 in there to keep the rope out of the crack. Definitely need something in there otherwise that crack eats the rope.
By Hank Caylor
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 31, 2011

By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2011

Cool route. I used a lot of red Alien/purple Camalot size and two blue Alien-sized pieces. Right before the fixed cam at the crux a red C3 is bombproof (inches below that piece). Kinda strange that the route forces you back onto the right face after that chimney rest but it adds another 30 feet of splitter crack, so why not?!? Really fun.
By butlerbt
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 25, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The bottom portion of this route is VERY good. Great, sustained finger locks. The top portion is also pretty fun but leaves a little to be desired because of the ledge. This is definitely an area classic, one of the best cracks @ the grade in the Front Range for sure.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Tough warm-up. Awesome route though. Doubles up to 0.5 (including C3s or equivalent) is sufficient with stoppers and single #1 and #2. This is a pretty great route at the grade, and the name is great - awesome record/song.
By B. Smith
From: Denver, CO
Dec 14, 2016

This route would be a great time to break out the off-set cams. Although they are not necessary, they would work well on both the vertical finger start and the traverse.

At the crux, you will be faced with a semi-stout bouldery move to the ledge. At this point, I was able to place a BD 0 (green C3) and #0.1 (red C3). They were right next to each other and made me feel a lot more secure.

Do this route! It can be safe, fun, and a little heady.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About