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Franklin's Tower 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Franklin Hessler 6/13/10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,428
Submitted By: Frank Hessler on Jun 14, 2010  with updates from Chris Kramer

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: The new route from bottom to top.


There are a lot of good holds for hands and really good feet for most of the route.


The route starts on the right hand side of the back of Sugar Loaf (facing away from the river)with a low bolt. Climb to the top and clip the chains, rappel down.


There are 5 bolts, 4 are new. 4-5 quickdraws are recommended depending on skill level.

Photos of Franklin's Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: rap after climbing the route
rap after climbing the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Clip the low bolt and proceed to each thereafter u...
BETA PHOTO: Clip the low bolt and proceed to each thereafter u...

Comments on Franklin's Tower Add Comment
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By fat cow
From: St. Paul, MN
Jun 14, 2010

what about the other route eh, wonder what its called
By Nathan Migdal
From: Bloomington, mn
Jul 14, 2010

There has to be more routes on the sugar loaf... at least some trad potential. Until your post, I had never even heard about this formation. Looks promising, at least in the photos posted. Are there more than two established routes here?
By Frank Hessler
From: Winona, MN
Sep 2, 2010

There are a few bolted routes on the south side of the Sugarloaf. There is one classic bolted route on the rock, it is not very trad friendly. The north face is not accessible. East and west are not too good either.
By Randers
From: Waukesha, WI
Oct 18, 2010

My parents recently moved into this area so we were visiting them for the weekend. Enjoyed climbing at sugar loaf this past Saturday. Climbed some of the bolted routes on the back. Fun times.
By Todd Johnson
Oct 25, 2013

I climbed here 25 years ago and put anchor bolts at the top of this route. We always called it optional protection as I have trad led it but with a huge runout. I always climbed it up and over the small roof to the left. The next line over to the left was Ouch (5.7) then Mesopotamia (5.6).
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse, WI
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

If you set the top rope on this line there is like 3 variations you can do (watch out for a little swing)

You can pull over the small roof which is fun, maybe 5.8

You can climb the blank looking face to the right down low. If you don't use the arete and stay just on the face I'd give it maybe 5.10 or just a short V2 boulder problem.

Or out left of this route directly up under another bolt there is a short section of 5.8 or 5.9 climbing.

Nothing too great but some good variations to try for fun after you already went on top and took pictures :)

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