REI Community
The Gypsies
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Gypsy - South face T 
Baby Gypsy-North Face T 
Franklin's Tower - Dark Star T 
Franklin's Tower - The Mine Shaft T 
Lower Gypsy-East Chimney T 
Middle Gypsy-Sandstone Sandwich T 
Phat Gypsy - DJ's Excellent Adventure T 
Unsorted Routes:

Franklin's Tower - Dark Star 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Page Views: 1,143
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on Jun 12, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
P2 - Awesome.


Two independent pitches join "The Mine Shaft" for the third and summit pitch. This is a great steep line up a tower at a surprisingly moderate grade. A good OW climber will call it 5.9, a poor one not so much.

P1. Climb up to the obvious corner through the chinle start. OW and chimney up the clean corner above bypassing several fixed pieces that take some of the sting out. This is a full body workout on great stone, 5.9+, 100' +/-.

P2. Head up left into the large, double roofs with great gear and awesome three dimensional climbing. Pass the corner, and chimney to a belay up and left on a slabby ledge out side of the chimney, 5.9, 70' +/-.

P3. Mine your way up through the center of the tower. If you're fat like me, you're just barely going to make it through the squeeze. Tie in on the side of you harness for an extra inch, 5.9, 60' +/-.

Rap with single 70m off the summit, then two raps (one shorter and one a bit longer) off trees immediately to the skier's right of the tower get you to the base of the route.


On the SE side of Franlkins Tower, this route ascends the obvious, steep corner exiting roofs out left.


Singles from a #0.5 - #5 C4 and triples from a #2 - #5 C4. We had a Valley Giant #9, but you can easly get away without it. You can do this with a single 70m rope.

Photos of Franklin's Tower - Dark Star Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the climb.
The start of the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up while cleaning things up.
Heading up while cleaning things up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Franklin's.
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow the obvious corner.
Follow the obvious corner.

Comments on Franklin's Tower - Dark Star Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About