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Frankincense 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brandon Thau, 1996 (?)
Season: Spring - Mid Fall
Page Views: 1,516
Submitted By: Isaac T. on Jan 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the roof from the base of Frankincen...

Description 

Fun route easy beginning the crux is in the middle where it smooths out a little and the hands are up high and to the left. The roof is fun and offers just a little exposure. Perfect climb for beginners. Look out for the tree branches when you rap off.

Location 

Once down in the Lower Falls area look to your left (west) you will see a large oak tree. the climb is under the oak tree (think ALL day shade) The route follows the obvious crack to the roof in the middle of the formation. there is a bolted sport route just to the right (east)

Protection 

Small nuts and cams (1/2" to 2"), 2 bolts with rings at the top.


Photos of Frankincense Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: just under the roof
just under the roof

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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 25, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The name of this route is Frankincense and it was probably first done by Brandon Thau around 1996 or so; the Mother Rock Guide to Frustration Creek (1998) includes this route.
By Isaac T.
From: Yokosuka, Japan
Jan 7, 2011

Oh I figured as much. Thank you for clarifying Chris.
By Carlos Andres Baron
From: Bishop, California
Feb 3, 2011

fun and varied route. the pro can be a little interesting when the cracks get full of dirt
By cameron hollett
From: Alta Loma, CA
Jan 5, 2013

Awesome climb. My first trad climb, definitely would do again. After 2nd piece of pro it gets slabby. Near end of route was fun with a small section of hand crack.
By Alex Fletcher
From: San Clemente, CA
Aug 7, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Had a really rough time on this one to be honest. The horribly dirty cracks certainly didn't help. Had to scrape them out with my nut tool just for placements. Honestly..had fun though. Surprisingly, I did on sight as well. Definitely should do it while you're in the area. Fun movement.
By alex carey
Oct 24, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Its ok, not as fun as i was hoping. cracks were definitely dirty and a little tough to protect as spots. Hard to justify bringing my trad gear again for just these two climbs.