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Whipper Wall
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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 06'
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 85
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Jul 29, 2007

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  • Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route dictated where the bolts went, not all of the rock sounded good when hit with a hammer, so you might not like where the bolts are. However I personally find them very usable. The start might have some green slime around it. Start in a steep left facing corner, climb up passing 1 bolt to a mantle. From here find that sweet jug, lean out and clip the bolt. The holds are hard to find and use but they are there. There was a fixed chain draw on bolt 3 to help with the hard clip. After clipping the 3rd there are a few ways to do it, straight up (which is hardest) or going out left and coming back in the "line" (exciting!). The route feels a lot longer than 4 bolts!
    I personally wouldn't let any green horns belay me on this, attention is a must.


    Start on the far right side of the Whipper Wall on the west side. A short scramble will put you at the base. Its the large roof on the far right side of the west face.



    Comments on Frankenslime Add Comment
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    By Sam Miller
    From: salt lake city, UT
    Aug 5, 2012

    Solid .11c, but not very fun.
    By Josh Triplett
    From: Bountiful, UT
    Jul 17, 2014
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    I almost blew the onsight on this route. The beta for the crux is a cyptic and committing. Clipping the 4th bolt can be exciting if you aren't tall. This route is harder read than it's neighbor, but it isn't as sustained so I would call it a tougher .11b

    READER BEWARE BETA SPOILER: I used a bomber toe hook to clip the 4th. Requires good body tension, but it's bomber. That made all the difference and because of it I'll give it two stars.

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