This is another great route on a wall already stacked with classics. While none of its cruxes are super hard, the pump and fear factor on this route are both rather sizeable. Numerous cruxes culminate with an awkward 12- reach move with a #2 RP below one's feet. A bit of a spicy meatball....
Start left of Center Route
as for Surf's Up
, then break right underneath a roof with good holds to stem on for the feet. Get some gear, then make a reachy-ish move to a spiky undercling. From here, several more mini-cruxes culminate with an exciting reach for a good hold ... traverse left into the last few feet of Surf's Up
and use the Surf's Up
two piton anchor. A yellow Alien and a large nut (BD #10 or so) back this up well.
Stick clip two fixed pitons to start, then mainly small nuts (RPs useful) and a few small cams along with a hand-sized piece or two. Also, one fixed Toucan piton.
By Noah McKelvin
From: Colorado Springs
Feb 9, 2017
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
I found a great #3 hand placed Pecker before the run-out that makes this PG. You don't need the #1 stopper doing it this way.