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This nice 5.11 sits left of the gully, left of the Chockstone Arete
and ascends to cold shut anchors. Edgy off the deck, this interesting line relents after 30 feet, turning into a lower angle ramp for 20 feet. Like the 5.9 on the left, it picks up an interesting finishing sequence on thin edges.
We added a bolt to the mid-section in 1995 to eliminate the groundfall potential. This is an interesting face climb and worth a burn. A top rope can be set up by swinging over from the anchor on the 5.9, but use your own gear as the cold shuts are getting old. Popular.
Eight to ten draws and a rope.
By Mike Bannister
Sep 12, 2012
This route is actually called Fragile Balance. It is the second route to the left of the large chimney with the massive chockstone.