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Fractured Fairytale 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Glenn Schuler & Wayne Smith
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: Glenn Schuler on Apr 17, 2008

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David Friedman getting his trad game on.

Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>


Scramble up & left 20' to a short, water polished dihedral with a small bush at the bottom of it. Climb up & over a funky overhang with big jugs and get stood up on the ledge over the lip (crux). Be sure to put in a directional piece here before traversing left across the ledge. Continue up the zig-zagging splitter finger crack towards a small dead tree on the left side of the prow. Finish straight up the exposed upper section to the anchors.

There is a direct start with two bolts that goes at .12c (FA Mark Anderson). It currently has a quick link on the second bolt.


From the Reptile Butress go right for about a 100' or so until you find a small flat, grassy patch at the base of another prominent butress.


Standard rack, bring extra cams from TCUs to 1 1/2" sizes. Also bring plenty of long runners.

Photos of Fractured Fairytale Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top end of the Fairytale.
Top end of the Fairytale.
Rock Climbing Photo: Schu on the fun Fractured Fairytale.
Schu on the fun Fractured Fairytale.

Comments on Fractured Fairytale Add Comment
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By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Apr 21, 2008

Chocolate Thunder 5.12
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
May 29, 2008

The direct start to Fractured Fairytale goes at ~5.12c. Beware the big flake at the 2nd bolt flexes a bit when you pull on it. I reefed pretty hard on it without any problems, but you might tell your belayer to stand to the side & wear a helmet. Excellent rock & good moves, and avoids the only poor quality section of FF.
By Andrew Krueger
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Feb 20, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Definitely not PG-13. #3 protects the mantle gaining the crack, remainder of the route eats gear. Maybe the direct start is PG-13 due to the flake.
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Feb 23, 2015

I always thought the last 20' of the route stepping off the mini-ledge at the dead tree to the top was a bit heady. Face moves to flaring finger crack with a not-so-great small cam for pro.
By Andrew Krueger
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 8, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Ha that explains a lot, Glenn. I bone-headedly stopped at the anchor for Chocolate Thunder and didn't think to continue up.
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Mar 23, 2015

If you were using Jason's new book, I see how you would do that. I just noticed he shows FF stopping short at the Chocolate Thunder anchors. If you stop there, you'll miss out on one of the coolest parts of the route, IMO.

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