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Fowl Play 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot, Glen Henshaw 1995
Page Views: 4,869
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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BETA PHOTO: Two climbers seen from Aqualung, don't stop in...


Fowl Play climbs up the center of the main face. Scramble up a ledge system to gain the start. This climb is steep and long, an excellent lead, and with a crux right at the end. What more could you ask for.


Fowl Play has 2 bolts for anchors and it requires 10 draws for the climb. Rappel with a 60 meter rope and aim for the pedestal.

Photos of Fowl Play Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the popular routes
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the popular routes
Rock Climbing Photo: 1) Mercy Street (beginning is behind pedestal)  2)...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Mercy Street (beginning is behind pedestal) 2)...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber is on Fowl Play
BETA PHOTO: Climber is on Fowl Play
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a looong pitch
This is a looong pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Making my way to the mantle.  The wall is slightly...
Making my way to the mantle. The wall is slightly...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 5, 2017
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 21, 2005

Climbed this route for the first time on 07/20/2005 and was witness to some VERY LARGE rockfall. Rock just to the left of the route (near the corner made by the wall and the piece chipped off and tumbled down the gully to the ground. Also a number of smaller pieces were loose and were trapped by gravity from the belay (at the anchors). So please -- protect yourself -- test the rock, wear helmets and be careful!

Other than that -- it's a good route in an easily accessible area. The approach is best NOT downclimbed in the dark. Perhaps a little soft for the grade, but the length makes up for it.
By Shaun Greene
May 17, 2006

Very fun route. It is a very long climb (by sport climbing standards) and you will need a 70 meter rope to lower all the way back down to where you're belayer is. A 60 meter will land you on top of the pedestal climbers left of the start. A cool mantle type move at the beginning and some cool thinner moves toward the end. Have Fun!!
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 27, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good long route. The start and end sections are 5.9 moves, the rest is maybe 5.8-ish. These 2 sections and the length are what make this route! Don't bypass the last moves by going left as I did many times before! Can be climbed with a 60m rope with careful lowering and some scrambling by the belayer...
By Moonfri
Oct 11, 2009

I did something today I thought I'd never do and rapped off my rope about 8 feet above the steep rock ramp at the bottom of this route. We were using a 60 meter and the ends weren't even. I felt the rope end pass though my hands and didn't have time to do anything but fall. It could have sent me all the way off the cliff but I feel 8 feet into a constriction in the rock which I got wedged in. BE SO CAREFULL if using a 60!! This is a really fun climb even though I almost took the plunge..Knots at the ends of my rope from now on!
By TobinPetty
From: Nampa, ID
Oct 12, 2009

Happy to hear there was a good ending to your story and only taking away from the mishap a lesson to knot the ends of your rope.
By Michael Buchanan
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Over 100 ft long! 11 bolts! some sporty runouts, great body positions. Probably the best 5.9 sport route in the canyon. 60 m ropes can be used, but some down scrambling my the leader will be necessary. if TRing it, you will need a 70m rope. Super classic.
By Cody Campbell
From: draper
May 7, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route, hard for a 5.9. I have seen multiple "5.9" climbers get shut down on her. There's a great spot to stop for a break about 2/3 the way up if your pumped out.
By Tryhard Scoville
From: Sandy, UT
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great long route with excellent exposure. Stout 5.9 moves at start and finish. Many great rest spots along the way, so take your time and save some gas for the finish. Rope got hung up on the top of the pinnacle when I pulled my 70 - thanks to the party that helped us free it.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 18, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The fifth bolt is there, even if you don't see it.
Sep 9, 2011

Ran into more bees than would normally be off pollinating some lilac tree.
By Jordy Hanson
May 23, 2013

Climbed it with a 60 and had 11" to spare :) I love the exposure on this climb!
By tscacadc
Oct 11, 2013

Went up here 10/7/13 and learned the meaning of mountain wasp. There were about 2mil wasps swarming the wall. We had to run for our lives.
By Evan J
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 21, 2014

Took us a while to find the start, since there was more exposed 4th class scrambling to the belay ledge than expected. Fun climb otherwise, great views and exposure. A couple of wasps, but not many. The moves by the lower mantle and the very last moves are the trickiest (if you don't dodge them to the left). The rest is fun and flowy with good hands. We pulled up a 2nd rope & rapped off with two 60m ropes, all the way past the start ledge to avoid the approach downclimb.
By Mike Marmar
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 17, 2014

Excellent pitch. Pumpy, long, with good movement and rests when you need them.

Be careful with rope length. We used a 60m, tried to lower, and ended up about 10' above the base. A 70m would be perfect.
By askam
Apr 4, 2015

This is a classic! Underrated, if day as night is a 5.10, clearly this should be also.
By David Wieder
From: Salt Lake, UT
Mar 19, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought the moves at the 2nd bolt and between the last bolt and the chains were .10a. Yes, there is some easy stuff in the middle, including a ledge you can sit on, but these cruxes are pretty stout for 5.9.

Excellent route.
By Mulch
From: SLC, Utah
Aug 5, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Climbed this yesterday. Next person to lead this should bring an adjustable wrench. Two bolts are spinners on the route. Forget the specific number of the bolts but they can definitely use a tightening.

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