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Four Play 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Arqueso, Ron Farrell, Tony Lusk, Mike Witt (1990)
Page Views: 2,506
Submitted By: Daniel Cohn on Dec 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Chelsea Cook redpointing Fourplay.


Relative low angle (not slabby) and very thin holds on a long and fairly sustained route. Great protection and quality rock make this a route to do.


long face to the right of Send Me, the obvious bolted .12a roof



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 4, 2013
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Dec 11, 2006

Is this the route that starts on the arete to the right of the 5.12 roof then goes right, onto the face?
By Daniel Cohn
Dec 12, 2006

I think Fourplay is the next route to the right of the one you are thinking of. It doesn't start on the arete.
By Jimbo
Dec 26, 2006

The route to the immediate right of the .12 roof is also a newer route. It does start on an arete the attempts to lead you away from the crack through a small roof. Somewhat contrived but it's only 5.10 not 5.11.
Fourplay is 20 feet farther right around the next corner.
I agree with jbak, Fourplay is a great route.
By Jimbo
Feb 1, 2007

I didn't know we had four star routes in Tucson. I thought that was more of a J-Tree "five star" kinda thing.

jbak is right this is a 2 star route on the same par with the other routes along the wall.
By Jimbo
Feb 3, 2007

No question about your comparison jbak.
The question is, is it a 3 star route for La Milagrosa. That is, is it better than all the other routes in the canyon. If it is only a two star route then any other route that is not as good as Fourplay in Milagrosa is only a one star route. And any route that is not as good as the, now, one star routes, are no star routes. I don't think there are any no star routes in Milagrosa.
Maybe we should go to an a,b,c,d, add on to the star system. That way Fourplay could be a **/c while Community Service would be a **/a.
By Braxtron
From: ...
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Did this climb today, thought it was stellar. Felt like solid .11 to me. Stay close to the bolts toward the end so you can do the sweet finish sequence.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Dec 16, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The first bolt short have been 1 foot down and 1 foot right, the second should have been 3 foot right and a few inches down, but I didn't lead it so don't take my word for it. This is one crimpy son-uva-gun! Climb it when its cold, so you can't feel the pain!

(Edit: I have been informed that there is a nice sequence straight up the first two bolts, but it escapes me. I really enjoyed the sequence to the right though.)
By Chelsea Cook
Apr 14, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

When I informed a friend that Stealin' was my favorite climb on the mountain he thought I was crazy and recommended this climb. I am sooo glad he did because it is now my favorite climb to date! If you like crimpy, technical moves, this is the route for you!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2009

Hey Chelsea, were you down there this past weekend? Too hot or just right in the shade? We debated about going there but ultimately headed up the mountain a bit. On the way back down we were still left to wonder what the conditions actually were?

BTW, that is a nice route and always worth a ride!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 22, 2009

congrats chelsea!!
By Chelsea Cook
Apr 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Thanks Geir, thanks Christian!
Susan, the last day that I was out there was that day there were 50mph gusts- which was not fun. I haven't been out there since then, but my experience with Milagrosa this time of year has been that the Main Wall stays nice since it's shaded most of the day. I hope you had fun higher on the mountain!
By Ben Venter
From: Lander, WY
Mar 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Really fun. One of my favorites in the canyon.
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 29, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route! Continuous and thoughtful with cool, positive holds, and one great hands free rest. This place has very solid grades!
By Jpower
Nov 4, 2013

So went climbing last weekend trying to get the redpoint here and pulled off a softball size hold between bolt 3 and 4. It was a pretty substantial hold and might have made the moves between these bolts a little bit harder... you can see the lighter rock where it came off. But someone might want to climb it and see how much the grade will change if any!

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