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Four Ounces to Freedom 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Farnsworth
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 996
Submitted By: Mike Farnsworth on Jan 27, 2012

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Working it before the bolts were all in!


If you like thin arete climbing, this route is for you! Climb the beautiful square-cut arete. There are no stopper moves (once you get the beta, and provided the temperatures are optimal), but the hardest part is certainly just below the number 2 Camalot placement where the roof meets the arete. For me, the foot sequence was key, culminating in a "falling" toss to a decent sloper while holding a "nipple" with my left hand. The top could honestly use an additional bolt or two; if you want to put these in, be my guest. Otherwise, I might get around to it some day.


Scramble up the gully to the left of Gun Show to a ledge - belay here. It might be worth anchoring the belayer to the small pine, as the ledge feels exposed.


quickdraws and a numero dos (number 2 Camalot)

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By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 16, 2012

Has anyone sent thos since mike's fa?
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Feb 11, 2013

I got some crane projects I wanna send this year. I belay you and vice versa

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