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Lower Bulldog Cliff
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Bush Pilot S 
Coyote Ugly S 
Eager Beaver S 
Four on the Floor S 
Johnny Come Lately S 
Other White Meat, The S 
Tight Fit S 

Four on the Floor 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Michael Benge
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Bolts, 1 Lead Pin, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 85
Submitted By: Joseph Crotty on Jul 31, 2015

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Description 

This is an Indy Pass classic for the grade. It's on you from the moment you leave the ground. At the second clip, traverse right and then directly up on solid but spaced out holds. There is a hard to spot but bomber pin in the roof about eight feet up and slightly right of the second bolt. A second crux awaits at the last bolt.

Location 

Around the corner and a bit uphill from Bush Pilot, find a decent flat dirt and rock platform. Climb the overhanging semi-gash to the first clip, and it's game on. The slightly right-leaning, 20' crack/rib feature above the roof is unmistakable.

Protection 

Three bolts and one pin and a two bolt anchor with chains.

You can bring a few finger and hand-sized pieces for the flared lieback section above the roof before the last bolt, but it's so flared nothing fast and bomber is available - it is best to skip the gear and punch it to the last bolt and then get down to business.


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By Michael Benge
Aug 3, 2015

The route to the left, Buns Up (5.12b, M. Benge, Chris Beh), is also a worthy, short-but-sweet route.

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