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BETA PHOTO: 4B just to the right of 4.
Basically it's a variation of Four unless you bail to the right at the top and follow the bolts. The way we've always climbed it, the route starts to the right of Four on some more difficult holds with a small corner and a bulge to deal with. You reach a small sloping ledge and then work back into the jumble that is Four and top out through the same crux and crack as Four. I believe some descriptions have Four Bravo following the bolts up and through the larger separation to the right of Four but I find using the Four crux harder and more fun.
Just a few feet to the right of Four.
Tope rope using the anchors and Army cable on top.
By Luke R 84
Sep 25, 2016
I think 4 and 4B should be split or something. I led 4B today but protecting the upper fist crack looked kinda terrible (flaring and a hard transition above bad gear) so I took the wormy route out which by grade would match 4, but 4B would seem to be a sustained 5.8. Of note, the wormy, bolted mess is about as terrible as it seems.
By Davis13au Davis
Oct 28, 2016
Not sure what you mean by split Luke R but yeah the flaring crack at the crux is a bit of a bear. If you are actually trying to lead it the crux move is unprotectable if memory serves me. Once you get a foot in the "crack" you can pretty much scamper on up. Better to top rope it unless you're looking for some adventure. Honestly I never really new if 4 or 4b was meant to follow the bolts up the ramp to the right. Didn't look like much fun.