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Fountain of Youth 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: George Hurley and Bill DeMaille, 1989
Page Views: 2,157
Submitted By: Michael Walker on Oct 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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  • Description 

    If you're in the climbing game for spectacular position, good pro, and interesting climbing, then this climb is a winner. Add in the lack of crowds (or people at all), beautifully colored rock, and an abundance of good climbing near-by and this climb should be on your "someday" list. The draw backs? Seasonal wildlife closures for half the year (February 1 - July 31st typically), and an arduous approach (like 1 hour and a half with a full pack, that is if you know where to find this climb. Expect a longer approach if this is your first time). There are no "trails" to this area - just social/wildlife paths once you leave the Fern Canyon trail.

    The Fountain of Youth is located on the third major arete (from the top) in the area known as the Dihedrals on the East Ridge. Begin with the same crack as The Knack (see that route description). Climb the best part of The Knack (the flip-flop corner) and arrive at a shelf above a wide crack (your #4 is now below your feet). The bolts on the arete to your right are your goal. To reach the first bolt, traverse out a horizontal crack which will take a great small tri-cam. Climb up past two more bolts, along the face left of the arete. The crux is a tricky move up the arete itself at the last bolt. Awesome position and delicate climbing along the arete.

    Rap from a two bolt anchor at the top.


    1 set stoppers, a #4 or the like, small tri-cams, 3 QDs to a two bolt anchor.

    Photos of Fountain of Youth Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the beautiful upper dihedrals of the E...
    BETA PHOTO: Overview of the beautiful upper dihedrals of the E...

    Comments on Fountain of Youth Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 8, 2002

    Wow! What a gem. This is like an easier version of Land of Ra. Save some gas for the end. Full value 10b.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 23, 2002

    You can leave the big cam behind--the wide crack is very easy. I used a #1/red Camalot on the 5.6, and yellow and green Aliens for the traverse to the first bolt (no tricams). I placed a #0.75/green Camalot about a foot above the first bolt (the trad in me). The crux for me was definitely at the last bolt. It was hard hanging out there to figure the move. After various false starts, I found what worked for me, and it wasn't all that bad after all.
    By Mark Griffin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 22, 2008

    Yikes! The anchor at the top of FOY is in poor condition. One bolt moves in its hole just by poking at it a bit. The other bolt seems solid but is fairly rusted and BOTH hangers flex uncomfortably under body weight.

    EDIT: Problem solved thanks to Jason, Matt, ASCA and ARI!
    By Jason Haas
    Sep 1, 2008

    Matt Samet and I replaced the cold shut anchor and bolts on this route today 9/1/08. The route bolts were with ASCA hardware and the anchor/chains from the ARI. Please support them if you don't already. Glad the two agencies are working so well together :)
    By doug rouse
    From: Denver, CO.
    Sep 11, 2008
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    Oxley and I did this route back in the early '90s, and had a great time. I remember topping out on the ridge crest, and finding a peregrin sitting on a dead tree not far from my position. Needless to say he was very upset at my intrusion, and proceeded to let me know by continual complaints as I belayed Kevin up! A very nice route. There is a good spot for a bivy near the top of the ridge if you have the time and desire...Mallory Cave is another, and affords a cool view of Boulder at night. Bring the Sheaf Stout!
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Oct 25, 2008
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    A couple of key holds have come off at the first bolt, (quite recently) as well as a flake at the second. As a result, this climb is now much harder than 10b.
    By Andrew McLean
    From: Colorado
    Nov 9, 2010
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Stellar climb. I felt this was awfully strenuous for 10b getting past the last bolt, but I would not rate it 11a/b. Next time I'll try LBA next door and see how it compares in difficulty to this.

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