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The Sentinel - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ball Bearing T 
Climb of the Sentry T,TR 
Fote Hog T 
Guard Duty T 
Hog Trough T 
Sentinel Beach T 
Western Saga T 

Fote Hog 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bob Dominick & John Wolfe 9/76
Page Views: 10,901
Submitted By: Ryan Avery on Jan 24, 2005

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Dustin solos Fote Hog

Description 

This route is to the climber's right of Ball Bearing.

P1: Follow a large ramp to an easy fifth class face that's tricky to protect. Climb straight up for a few feet and belay from a small cave.

P2: Exit the cave and climb up on large patina flakes. If you go right the difficulty is 5.7, and if you go left it is 5.6. Belay from a large ledge and walk off to climber's left.

Protection 

Standard Rack to 3". Gear anchor.


Photos of Fote Hog Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruxing Fote Hog
Cruxing Fote Hog
Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick and Jason on fote hog and an unknown soloi...
Patrick and Jason on fote hog and an unknown soloi...
Rock Climbing Photo: A unique photo and a unique way of climbing Fote H...
A unique photo and a unique way of climbing Fote H...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown party ahead of my group on Fote Hog.
Unknown party ahead of my group on Fote Hog.
Rock Climbing Photo: P2
P2
Rock Climbing Photo: racing daylight through the overhang
racing daylight through the overhang
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the start
Looking up the start
Rock Climbing Photo: Close up
Close up
Rock Climbing Photo: The business
The business
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo just before the crux of Fote Hog, after the ...
BETA PHOTO: Photo just before the crux of Fote Hog, after the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A nice rest spot after the "big" move. P...
A nice rest spot after the "big" move. P...

Comments on Fote Hog Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 26, 2016
By Richard Beller
Mar 23, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a great route. Bring small to one inch cams and nuts.
By Drederek
Apr 5, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

P1 up the ramp, straight up from the tree, traverse under the roof to the patina and up to a huge ledge.P2 head right up double cracks, across ledge to awesome layback dihedral then a few awkward moves to the top.easy walkoff left as you face the climb.An excellent start to the day.
By Andy
Oct 4, 2005

It's short enough that it can be done in one pitch, but rope drag would be significant
By Meredith DB
From: Boulder, CO
May 11, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Excellent route. It can easily be climbed in one pitch with a 60-meter rope and not too many placements (to avoid rope drag).
By Sam Prentice
Oct 26, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Classic. A near perfect single pitch 5.6.

This overlooked and underrated route is likely the best 5.6 in the park: balancy face moves to start, an overhang with huge jugs, a nice bear hug/finger crack midway, and a solid layback to top it off.

Dr. Evil is right on: unless you're still gaining your lead head, do it in one pitch. Start at the top of the left leaning ramp, and conserve placements until you get to the overhang.

If you dont know how to reduce rope drag, this is a great route to learn!! There are so many places to set up a second belay, you have many "outs".
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 23, 2007

This is a fun and excellent route. May give the beginning .6 leader some trouble.
By Darren D.
Apr 2, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A "heady" 5.6 on pretty good rock. Typical J-Tree walk-off.
By Kanyu
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My follower on this route is an experienced climber and he found the traverse to the bottom of the crux could be a bit eerie for the less experienced follower due to far apart pro from the beginning to the end of the traverse.

This route is in shade in the PM.
By Mark L
Apr 30, 2007

The traverse looks kind of improbable from the ground. Probably better for an experienced 5.7 leader to lead. At the beginning of the climb where you follow a crack up (above a small tree) you can get a smaller nut (lower) and a TCU or Alien (around 3/4" size) a few feet higher. I only had a .75 camalot and couldnt get it in the narrow (height and width) crack so could only get 2 lobes in there and probably would have decked if falling form the traverse.

The traverse is all there for a taller person but can definitely make one nervous as a fall will cause injury probably. At the end of the 10'-15' traverse or so you can plug a good piece under the patina plates before going up over the patina plates. Once again height helps feel securer earlier on this part.

The rest of the climb is mostly walking up ledges with the exception of a finger lock move and a short lieback or hand jam section. Did it in one pitch (70 meter but 60 meter is fine). I didnt feel rope drag but didnt put much pro in.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 2, 2009

TCU's are a must for the opening section. Use lots of runners and a single 70m will get you to the top. Amazing exposure and wild moves for a 5.6!
By Nicole BI
From: Oakland, CA
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I found the traverse to be very difficult to protect convincingly and therefore rather scary. The moves are not difficult, but a fall could have serious consequences. Other than that I loved this climb, especially the huge juggy roof and the dihedral.
By Choss Chasin'
From: Torrance, CA
Oct 10, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun climb! Traverse was extremely easy but lacks any pro. The second pitch is like climbing several small boulder problems. The dihedral at the top was my favorite part.
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 24, 2011

A really fun climb, where you will surely have a supportive audience on the weekends ;) I found this easier but more exposed than Mike's books, although both are excellent for bringing a beginner on their first multipitch.

Although improbably steep, the climb is so juggy that 5.6 is right on. Even though you could do this in 1 pitch, I don't know why you'd want to - the obvious belay ledge is excellent. I'd recommend building your anchor in the right crack (finger size nuts and cams) as the left one flexes slightly.

I'm inclined to disagree about the traverse being unprotectable, It seemed to me that strategic smaller cams sewed it up nicely. The walkoff is great, 2nd class and only takes 5-6 min.
By a little one goes up
Apr 27, 2011

I guess you can say I'm still getting my lead head....and I'm short...so the traverse was rather *exciting* - It was supposed to be my Sunday warm-up and I ended up being more scared on Fote Hog than any other climb I had done that weekend. Still, though - fun and recommended ;)
By Jim Amidon
Oct 28, 2011

Superb route for the grade.......
By Jason Krug
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 13, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Loved the layback!!! The traverse definitely would be tricky if you were short.
By jeffblankman
From: San Diego, Ca
Jan 26, 2016

Question for those "salty" J-Tree climbers out there: What is the actual "route" for P1 of Fote Hog?

I see a lot of pictures and talk here about going over the roof bulge on the patina jugs . . . but I was under the impression that that is a different climb or different variation of the climb. The "Miramontes" guide shows Fote Hog going pretty much straight up from the tree on the low ledge and then entering the patina near the little bush, NOT going up under the roof. That guide lists the juggy roof as a 5.9 (I think) with a different name, though I can't remember it at the moment.

As far as sparse/tricky pro, I can concur. My buddy lead P1 and used a Grey Metolius TCU in the thin horizontal crack where you start to traverse. He thought it a good placement, but he went up about another 10 feet (near the bush) and I flicked the rope a little and the TCU popped right out. He was about 20 feet above his pro, then, and would have definitely hit the ledge with a fall. Thankfully, he was in a good position and there was easy pro behind a flake to his right.

When I followed, I inspected the horizontal and there is at least one great constriction that I think would take a bomber nut placement, especially a nut with a groove, like DMM offsets.

P1 (the way we did it, straight up from the tree) looks tough and improbable, but "it's all there" as they say. Great holds and edges once you're on it.
P2 Loved the dual crack bulge and amazing (too bad it's so low angle) corner crack of pitch two. Pretty easy ground, but REALLY fun.
By jeffblankman
From: San Diego, Ca
Jan 29, 2016

Okay, I saw on another site (Summitpost, maybe?) Bob Gaines mentioning that the lines/variations for "Fote Hog" are incorrect in the Miramontes book.
By RTM
Feb 9, 2016

Thanks guys! The line was incorrectly drawn in the 1st edition Miramontes routeguide. I revised it for the second edition based on Bob Gaines information.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 18, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route! Lots of variety. I thought P1 protected okay with a small cam in the "inset triangle" above the tree and a very small purple TCU in the horizontal crack below the traverse. I would rate the overhanging crux move 5.7, even though the hand holds are huge -- and reaching those holds is definitely tougher if you're not about 5'9" or taller. Really an enjoyable climb!
By Matt Nottingham
Apr 26, 2016

I definitely got off route on this one. I thought the crux was starting up the thin crack off the ramp. There is currently a fixed nut on the traverse in a horizontal crack. It appears I pulled over the roof further left than most climbers do. I went up right at the undercling with a good cam in the undercling. That caused me to miss the ledge out right and instead I belayed from a small cave (visible in several of the pics) with gear behind somewhat suspect flakes. From the cave we went a bit left and over another small roof on giant patina holds, then nearly straight up on easy slabby climbing to belay to the right of the large boulder/prow that is visible in some of the pics as well. I suspect I finished on Look Ma No Bolts (?). Bummed that I missed the "awesome layback dihedral". There are a set of double cracks right above the cave, which made me believe I was on route until I got higher up the second pitch.