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Fortitude, Pitch 1 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13 [details]
FA: FA Joe Cote FFA Neil Cannon and Hugh Herr
Page Views: 521
Submitted By: bayard russell jr on Aug 15, 2008

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Description 

A couple of years back a pillar fell down at the base of the route revealing a beautiful 5.11d stemming corner. This joins the left-traversing arch of Fortitude making for a great, sustained pitch. It was a great early spring surprise.

Location 

Just to the right of the Cave, and immediately right of White Eye. Obvious, very white, left facing corner.

Protection 

Two 1/4" bolts were replaced. Without the pillar the route is safer (its not there to swing into). The nuts protecting the crux section can be levered out if not well set, so be careful, but when they're in they're in - I've fallen all over them. We replaced a single 1/4"-er on the ledge where the hard climbing ends, and belayed off of that, it can be backed up in a crack. Rappel off the bolt or continue to the Bonfire Ledge through a forest of lichen. The rest of the pitches are dirty, but look great.


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By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 6, 2010

Yo bayard- does this also lead eventually to the upper 11+ pitch on White Eye ?

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