Fort Williams Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Top view of Keyes battery, and potential areas
In the off days of spotting German U-Boats I'm sure the soldiers of the WW2 era had plenty of time to do some bouldering of their own. This park encompasses some of Maine's rugged coastline with picturesque views of Portland Headlight and Portland. The bouldering here, like any spot on the Maine coast, is a plethora of opportunites to set new routes or climb old ones. There's a few bolted lines here spotted around the parking lot cliffs just to the side of the lighthouse and the main parking lot. Kind of run out and spotty anchoring, you may need to rap to investigate the quality of the bolts prior to hanging on them. This is right on the ocean so keep in mind the tides and make sure your belayer has a good anchor as well so no one goes for a swim :)
Just google Fort Williams in Cape Elizabeth Maine.. 5 minute walk from the parking lots.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 3.7 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Fort Williams
Blade Runner V3+ 6A+ ME
: Fort Williams
start to the right as far as you can go before the drop into the water, sit start & work your way around the arrete along the little roof and around the corner where you pull to a mantle top out..a pumpy route that has an awesome finger jam. The crux lies on the roof as you have to fall into an over head matched crimp...[more] Browse More Classics in ME
BETA PHOTO: Top view of lower ships cove
BETA PHOTO: I feel like this area has a lot of potential route...
BETA PHOTO: Difficult to tell scale, but this is about 25-30 f...
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 31, 2011
A piece of advice. I wouldn't trust any fixed gear placed here.
By Josh Laverty
Sep 8, 2015
I second the skeptical look at those bolts. One set is badly rusted, the second set looks sound, but there are only two, and on a short face. I didn't count it worth bringing in the equipment.
There are some fun highball routes to be had here, and the salt air makes for minimal chalk use. In front of the old battery overlooking the beach, there is also a lot of really fun rocks at low tide. Children learning to boulder will have lots to learn on, and if not challenging, there is plenty of feel good cracks to play on.