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BETA PHOTO: Fort Nox, the route.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Starts on the east face of the tower in the obvious, loose, guano coated dihedral. The Climbs starts on easy but loose terrain with stemming. The technical crux comes next when you have to decide just how much of your weight those keyed-in blocks can hold as you climb through a short overhanging section to an ever-widening double crack. The physical crux is as you'd guess; the offwidth/squeeze chimney, which leads to a good ledge. A short, interesting section of chimney ends at the fixed belay (good anchors) with a short scramble to the summit.
Downclimb easy terrain to the belay/rap anchors and rap the route. One double-rope rappel (60m)gets you to the ground.
Double set of camalots from fingers up to large tubes for the offwidth/squeeze.
BETA PHOTO: Gold Bar Tower