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South Face 

Fort Knox 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: George Hurley, Katy Cassidy, Earl Wiggins March 1988
Page Views: 804
Submitted By: jakobi on Feb 9, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Fort Nox, the route.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Starts on the east face of the tower in the obvious, loose, guano coated dihedral. The Climbs starts on easy but loose terrain with stemming. The technical crux comes next when you have to decide just how much of your weight those keyed-in blocks can hold as you climb through a short overhanging section to an ever-widening double crack. The physical crux is as you'd guess; the offwidth/squeeze chimney, which leads to a good ledge. A short, interesting section of chimney ends at the fixed belay (good anchors) with a short scramble to the summit.


Downclimb easy terrain to the belay/rap anchors and rap the route. One double-rope rappel (60m)gets you to the ground.


Double set of camalots from fingers up to large tubes for the offwidth/squeeze.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Gold Bar Tower
BETA PHOTO: Gold Bar Tower

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By Neil Kauffman
Apr 19, 2017

Another classic Wiggins squeeze! Most of the guano is avoidable, those blox are scary but you can protect in another crack and mostly stem around without using them much.
The first hard section of squeeze is fairly secure but tight right at the hips, #6 Camalot won't fit here. Second squeeze is even tighter and you're deep in so no pro really needed. I had to slouch my harness below my hips to make it and tag the rack outside the crack, better yet don't bring anything with you, although I placed a #5 after this and there is opportunity for other sizes, maybe hands. For reference I'm 150lbs and have a 31" waist, breathe in breathe out, don't freak out.
Maybe bring 1 #6 but leave it after the crack switch when the wide begins.

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