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Routes in West Face, Center
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Beer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beernuts TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Broken Bit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Come and Get It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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D'oh! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Deflector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Donuts TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Excellent Smithers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Forsaken T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Going, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Goldmember T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kidney Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Like a Virgin S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Lone Ranger, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Piss Easier T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shagadelic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slacker/Carrion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Techno Tango T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Joe Denicola, Greg Barnes, Brian Bennett, Paul Rasmussen, 7/24/14. |
| Page Views: | 1,294 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Barnes on Jul 25, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Cool new steep face route between Breathing Hard and White Line Fever. First pitch is a great stand-alone pitch at 5.10a. Second pitch is an easy ramp with one hard bulge. Third pitch is a sport pitch which climbs the steep, intricate face past 10 bolts (zero gear opportunities). The last 2 easy pitches are not new, they join Breathing Hard (& White Line Fever for the last 1.5 pitches).
Location
Start Breathing Hard, and move right at the big horizontal crack about 40' up (Breathing Hard takes the left crack then moves left on big knobs). Move up to a bolt, then back left to the offwidth groove (3.5" cam). Up the groove past a bolt to the top, then follow closely-spaced bolts right and up on steep thin edges & knobs to a bolted belay on the big ledge (100'). Second pitch (50') climbs the easy ramp which has one dirty, funky bulge (5.9, fixed piton) to a bolted anchor. Third pitch angles left following the bolts to a bolted anchor (100'). Rap from here with a single 60m rope (knot rope ends!!) or do 2 easy pitches to the top, starting past the only pro bolt on Breathing Hard (which is about 15' above the anchor - note that the Reid/Falkenstein topo incorrectly shows it much higher and further left). No fixed anchors above the 3rd pitch anchor.
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