Forgotten Trails Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Small Wall
This area mostly has .11s and .12s. The wall and area is serene and secluded. Forgotten Trails
was mostly developed by Bill Boyle, Josh Clark, and Jess Johnson. Here's the lineup from left to right:
3. Tom Slick
4. Long Time Coming 12a
5. Boy Wonder
10b (left of trough)
7. Trash Kicker
9. The Bleaker
10. Your Onus
11. Strangle Hold
12. Dream Destroyer
13. Golden Feat
gap between climbs
14. Wasp Stop
15. Smooth Operator
continue around arete
16. Long Shadows
12a (walk to the right to the blunt arete - it's there)
gap between climbs
19. Storm Track 11c
20. The Mistake 11b
21. Credibility Check
22. Twisted Memories
23. Mind Stream
gap between climbs
24. Mindbleeder 12a
25. Crank it or Yank it 12b
27. Face Up 12b (23, 24, 25 by a big rock)
29. Bumblies in the Dark
The Small Wall has 3 climbs, left to right, these are short stout routes:
1. American Hardcore 12b
2. Life O'Riely 13+? (moves right over the upper right seam)
3. Get Shorty 12a/b
Park at the small pullout just past the Hell Cave
parking lot (the pullout on the right immediately following the 11-mile sign).
Walk down the hill to where a pipe used to span the river; cross the river then head immediately left.
Follow the trail past a fire pit and up a talus slope. The Small Wall
will be approximately half way up the talus on the left - continue up the slope until the trail cuts right through the trees. This is Forgotten Trails
. Plan 30 minutes.
Climbing Season For the American Fork Canyon area.
Weather station 1.4 miles from here
19 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Forgotten Trails
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Forgotten Trails
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Forgotten Trails:
Macedonia 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Forgotten Trails
Bumblies in the Dark 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Utah
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Forgotten Trails
Really good route on excellent golden stone. I climbed up, clipped the first bolt, got onto the big ledge and clipped the second bolt and then reached down and un-clipped the first bolt to prevent rope drag. Balancy and subtle for the first three bolts. Precise and sequential footwork is necessary. The next three bolts are easier climbing on cool flat and occasionally incut edges. Another crux awaits at the sixth bolt, some flagging might be the trick to grabbing the big left facing flake pinch....[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
BETA PHOTO: Forgotten Trails Topo
BETA PHOTO: Getting There - Forgotten Trails
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jun 27, 2008
There is no longer a pipe to cross the river (removed). Drive .7 miles from TCNM and park at the pull-out. Look for a way to cross the river and then walk up stream to find a trail to Forgotten Trails.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 12, 2008
Some of the ratings seem a little off but the routes here are good enough not to care about what's this rating or that rating. We parked at the Hell parking area and crossed a large log (solid right now) and then headed back upstream along a faint trail in tall grass. Where the large pipe used to be, look for a hidden campsite in the woods. The trail begins from the campsite.
By Scott McLeod
Jul 19, 2009
The approach beta mentioned here in the comments is still accurate as of July 09
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Aug 24, 2010
There is now (August 2010) a Tyrolean Traverse just downstream of the former pipe crossing. No log at the moment.
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 10, 2016
A good approach as of 2014-2016: Park at the pull out after that for the Hell Area. Head down to the river and go up stream until you find a series of down trees and log debris piles in the river. Find your way across these logs. Nothing sketchy and there are several options depending on the water level. At the other side of the river, head right and look for the campfire ring. Do not follow the faint mistake trail that goes directly up the scree from the river crossing. The well established trail is just behind the fire ring. 10-15 minute approach to Forgotten Trails from the parking area.
Sun Aspect: Main wall up to Smooth Operator gets sun until about 12:30 in mid summer. In the fall, the sun is lower and the crag is in the shade pretty much all day.
By Leify Guy
Aug 12, 2016
There's a huge downed tree directly off the parking that Jeremy Steck referred too, no need to use the debris pile anymore, just use the huge log crossing while it lasts.