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Forgotten Arete  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 550', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dakota Walz & Ryan Gajewski, 7/2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Dakota from North Dakota on Jul 8, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Jackpot and Sievers' Towers.

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Description 

This is a fun easy romp up the aesthetic arete of Jackpot Tower. We didn't rope up for the FA, so the pitch lengths are a rough estimate.

APPROACH :
Take the Glacier Gorge trail to Green Lake, and hike up the grueling North Gully between the Keyboard of the Winds and Pagoda Mountain. After reaching the base of Sievers' Tower, hike East across the base of the Keyboards until reaching tower 7, Jackpot Tower.

P1. From the base of the tower, an obvious, slabby chimney splits up the center face. Climb it for about 250 feet of easy terrain (5.2).

P2. On the large ledge traverse almost 100 feet left until reaching the prow of the tower (5.0).

P3-4. Climb the prow to the summit over pretty consistent 5.7 chimney, face, and crack climbing for 200 more feet.

DESCENT:
Hike back around to the notch between Pagoda and The Keyboard.

Protection 

A single rack.


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