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Forfeit the Bail 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brad Singer & Pete Paredes, July 2007
Page Views: 271
Submitted By: Dave Daly on Jul 28, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Forfeit the Bail (5.10a/b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacl...

Description 

Make a few difficult and somewhat awkward moves to climb onto a narrow ramp. Either clip the first bolt off the boulder near the start or clip it once on to the ramp. Climb the ramp up and left to a sloping ledge, clipping the second bolt along the way. From this point, cross over left and up to a jug, making difficult transition from the ledge to the main face by way of opposing small holds. Upon reaching the jug, clip bolt #3 and crank up onto the top of the jug. At this point, the terrain eases up as one clips bolts #4 and #5, moving up casual slab moves to anchors with rap rings.

Location 

The start of this route is located on the southwestern side of Chester Rock, near the right side corner. A good route to do in the morning before the mid day sun reaches the southern portion of the rock.

Protection 

(5) draws


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By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Jul 28, 2009

My personal opinion (of course) is that the route is a bit more physical than technical. The crossover moves required to transition to the main face are....well, tough!! One of the toughest ".10a" moves I've ever encountered. And getting off the deck and onto the ramp would be a tough chore for those shorter than 5'9".

Been on some other B.S. and P.P routes throughout San Berdew hills....this one checks in at above their norm for rating a .10a. Certainly a very solid 5.10 climb.

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