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Forest Circus Fiasco 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
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Submitted By: dmPete on Oct 20, 2014

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A fun, but frustratingly inconsistent route with an impressive, strong finishing move. Entertaining 5.8-level climbing up a very blocky/ledgy face through 6 bolts, followed by a crux that feels like a completely different climb.

The last couple moves of this route are on a severely overhanging bulge at the top. It requires the use of small crimps, a couple of slopers, a throw, and an awesome pull-up/mantle, with no foot holds. The single hardest move at the crag.

The crux can be circumvented by climbing the dirty crack to the left and traversing back onto the face of the bulge at the anchors (probably 5.9 or 5.10a climbing). Not recommended for fun factor, but a good way to get your gear back if you can't make the crux move on the face.


Five feet right of "Bat Stupor," third to last route along the approach path. Look for a short, vertical very blocky face with a couple of large, overhanging boulders at the top. "Forest Circus Fiasco" is the right bolt line on this face.


Quickdraws. Bolted anchor.

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Rock Climbing Photo: How not to pull the crux on Forest Circus Fiasco
How not to pull the crux on Forest Circus Fiasco

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By dmPete
Jan 26, 2015

Sixth bolt (the one protecting the crux) was loose and spinning. I hand-tightened it as much as I could while up there, but did not have the gear to really tighten it down the way it should be.

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