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YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Shari Yahne, Todd Van Alstyne-1989 Ground Up
Page Views: 919
Submitted By: stover on Jun 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Check NPS for Closures


route to the right of Pigskin. Shares the anchors with Pigskin.


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3 or 4 bolts

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By Joe M
From: Beckley, wv
Jul 16, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is listed as 5.8 in the Rushmore climbing guidebook.
By Dallas R
From: Traveling the USA
Aug 25, 2015

+1 on 5.8. This route is 90% 5.5, except for one 8 foot section by the third bolt. Slightly bulging, tiny crystals, two hard moves and you have passed the crux.
By John Wanner
Aug 30, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

3 bolts to the anchors, a bit runout after the crux. You need to be probably 5'10" or so to clip the first bolt without doing so from a pretty questionable handhold. Once clipped, there are about 12' of 5.8 moves before the angle decreases and you get some really nice, large crystals for hands & feet. Easy to set up with a TR since it shares anchors with Pigskin, a very cool 5.5 with decent pro and interesting holds.

You can also start to the left of the route, in a crystal filled trough between Pigskin and Foreskin (TR only as you're too far away to clip the crux bolt). This start is about 5.7, climbing on really nice crystals, gradually angling over to the second bolt on Foreskin.

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