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5.8+ T,TR 
A Touch Too Much  T,TR 
A Year in the Life T,TR 
A Year in the Life, Variation 1 Direct Start T,TR 
A Year in the Life, Variation 2, Left Start T,TR 
Blow Out T,TR 
Evening Visitor T 
Foreign Invasion T,TR 
Hourglass T,TR 
Main Wall Traverse 
Roof Route T,TR 
Welcome to Waterloo T 

Foreign Invasion 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
Page Views: 806
Submitted By: Paul Shultz on Mar 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Kimberly M. on 'Foreign Invasion'


Start at a small, left facing corner and climb the face past a bolt to a small horizontal crack. Continue to the top.


Gear higher up is better then it looks. Be careful on the exciting runout just above the first bolt because a fall could definitely result in decking. Bring small cams and nuts.

Photos of Foreign Invasion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Damon on 'Foreign Invasion'
Damon on 'Foreign Invasion'

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By NEGuiding
From: Matawan, NJ
Jun 9, 2009

Nice, HUGE jug in the beginning of this route. The flake higher up route adds some nice footwork into the climb.
By Ancent
From: Reno, NV
Aug 31, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I get lost between the varied routes on this face, so I am not sure if I stayed on route. Used the lower vertical crack to the left for protection. Tenuous moves get you higher up where larger #.5-1-sized cracks give you bomber protection.
By Dave Pfurr
Nov 16, 2016

Taking together the comments of old-timers from back in the day (see descriptions for "A Year in the Life"),the route description from the Nick-Sloane Falcon Press guidebook, and personal knowledge of this face, it seems "Foreign Invasion" no-doubt begins at the small, left-facing corner--but then angles off slightly-RIGHT to clip the obvious bolt before heading up and right to the short, horizontal crack--then on to the top. I always thought of F.I. as angling slightly LEFT to a lower, horizontal crack that is that is to the right of the bottom of "The Hourglass", then going straight up from there--and that's how I would climb it.
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Dec 3, 2016

This climb starts directly under the bolt. The line is pretty much straight to the top for the most part. I believe there is or used to be an old 1/4 bolt near the top of the route. It could be that Hourglass has the bolt after the crack in the upper half of that climb. It's been awhile since I climbed here. I remember this climb is sketchy getting to the letterbox after the bolt. Your belayer needs to be attentive or you could easily deck. You also have to boulder up to the bolt which merits a spot or maybe a crash pad.

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