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Forearm Smash 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,045
Submitted By: Glenn Burns on Apr 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Greg starting up Forearm Smash on a beautiful Apri...


This traditional climb starts out wide hands to fists. A good climb for the competent 5.8 crack climber, solid protection to the bolted anchors. Follow the crack and protect early and often, the crux is the
wide crack start with awkward footing.

  • RCM&W #5, p.115


Rrominent crack from the base to the top of the cliff, left of Work Ethic. This crack divides the Cyclops Area.


cams, nuts, hexes

Photos of Forearm Smash Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking for any place to stick a piece of gear.  I...
Looking for any place to stick a piece of gear. I...
Rock Climbing Photo: Forearm Smash
Forearm Smash
Rock Climbing Photo: Face to face with a loud bat!
Face to face with a loud bat!
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron leading
Aaron leading

Comments on Forearm Smash Add Comment
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By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

also known as cooler crack.

much of this route is choss.
By Kevin O'Connor
From: Jacksonville, AR
Feb 23, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Probably one of my most favorite climbs at Dirtwing, mainly because it is rarely climbed and still has some grip left on it, unlike Perfect Crimb. I know a #3 camalot fits nicely under the first roof, about 15' off the ground.
By Richard C
Oct 6, 2010

Skip the #3 and go with a hex much better fit!
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Salt Lake City
Feb 2, 2011

Choss route but good climb top of the climb is a jug hall.
By Ryan Amundson
From: minneapolis, mn
Sep 12, 2013

I climbed this route the other day. I don't lead trad that much, but here is what I used to protect this crack.

About 10' up I plugged a #1 cam with a runner to prevent drag due to the small roof.

At the roof I placed a #3 cam again with runner.

Above the roof I placed two #2 cams spaced out in the crack before coming to the easier climbing above.

I had a hard time finding good placements in the upper section. With that said I did find on place for a #0.5 cam and then just run it out to the chains. The climbing becomes much easier so it was not as nerve racking as it could have been.

Does anyone have better ideas on the upper section?
By Jimmy D
From: Rapid City
Mar 25, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

I would not call this a 5.8. Super solid jams the whole way up and lets not forget about all the jugs and footholds that scatter the faces to the right and left of this thing. The first 20ft are 5.6 and then it eases up into 5.5 after the roof.

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