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Fore Paws T 
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Fore Paws 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: July 22,1995 - Ed Webster, Billy Squire
Page Views: 911
Submitted By: GarrettJ on May 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

Start as for Rock Garden.

Location 

Climb Rock Garden to the a crack on the right. Just to the right of the middle section of Rock Garden look for some thin flakes. Continue up a flake (5.7) to the same ledge and belay as Rock Garden.

Protection 

standard rack


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By Russ Keane
Sep 21, 2015

Quite a good climb. Not terribly easy, but also not a sandbag.

You have two choices on how to get over/across from the 5.4. You can make a long reach with a slightly intimidating traverse move into the lower part of the right-hand corner, which allows you to place pro (twice, or once, depending on your comfort level), while making a few steep moves up to the ledge ... Or I guess you can look higher up onto the left/upper part of the switchover and get across on thin flakes with slabby feet up there. I chose the first option. It was fun.

The second part of the climb takes you up this weird face with thin/flaky hollow protection and on past the dwarf tree to an anchor. This section is 5.6 but a little spooky, and good lead testing for those at the grade.

By Bill Moser
May 19, 2017

This has its own anchor (above the dwarf tree, 10 feet or so to the right of Rock Garden's anchor).
By Eric Nguyen
From: Natick, MA
Aug 11, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Definitely has its own anchor.

Also, not listed here but appears in Handren's "North Conway Rock Climbs": Fore Paws direct. Climb up the face to the right of Rock Garden, but to horizontal below bolt for Flyboy. Traverse left into layback and join Fore Paws the rest of the way up. Good protection. Really fun moves. Felt a lot less strenuous than Fore Paws.

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