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Echo Rock - West Face
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Forbidden Paradise 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alf Randell and Rich Tucker, 1987
Page Views: 2,928
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Forbidden Paradise (1991)


Good climbing that's a bit steeper and better protected than most of the climbs on Echo Rock. The moves up to and past the first bolt are SUPER greasy and show the effects of popularity. There's an optional nut placement after the first bolt if you need it.

Fun climbing with sustained balancy movement and good protection merit this route three stars out of five.


6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (all 3/8").

Photos of Forbidden Paradise Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Forbidden Paradise. First bolt is in the forground...
Forbidden Paradise. First bolt is in the forground...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 18, 2012
By Randy
Feb 4, 2003

Very good climb, and less run out than many of its neighbors.
By Steven Powers
Oct 30, 2003

in between the frst and second bolts you can also slot a small stopper, its not that far from the next bolt but its there if you want it, this climb and heart and sole are the best climbs of that grade on Echo Rock.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 24, 2004

The moves up to and past the first bolt are indeed GREASY--in fact they are grease defined. My leader took six falls on that first bolt. The six pack of beer probably didn't help...
By Kevin Jeffreys
Jan 27, 2004

I'm on the short side of 5'8" and I need to make the crux rock over step up BEFORE clipping the bolt. Not bad...just heady.
By Bo Johnston
Dec 16, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is too good!
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jan 5, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

lead this again and felt in the b/c area today.......this one is really nice and has some super cools moves..... deffinatly bolted well.......not "Sport" but as mentioned by someone...kind of "Josh Sport"..... to the "Sportsters" this one you'll love it! Safe with a touch of Josh Thrill...........
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Feb 19, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Any advances over the last 25 years in the adhesion qualities of rubber have been rendered obsolete by the increasing smoothness of that one foot placement at the crux. Some nice moves on this route.
By Joe Dawson
Apr 17, 2006

I think this is a great route. It is well bolted for Joshua Tree standards and reasonably bolted by other standards; I dont like runout and it feels fine to me. The moves are fun and varied and choosing the easiest line takes a little figuring. I would not burn the energy hanging out to place a nut on the route unless you have a nut fetish - the bolts are not that far apart. I would like to think the route is a little sandbagged since it took me three goes to redpoint it, but it could be one of those home crag advantage things. Crux is between first and 2nd bolts and the roof move is hard until you figure out how to do it. I love this route (obviously that Randy dude dont know nothin about JTree:), it was a very rewarding climb.
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Jan 3, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree the crux is between bolts 1&2. I got my feet by the bolt, felt 'em slipping and had to do the'ol back-run to 'till i was caught!! Sweet route took me a couple tries to figure the crux out.
I put a GREEN alien where others plased a nut. If the next moves were gonna be as hard as the earlier I wanted "something" there but, didn't end up testing it!! The roof moves aren't bad just, hard to commit to.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 10, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Awesome route for JT face climbing. You guys are right - well protected for Josh. Rich - glad to know I'm not the only one to take a lead "run" form the crux, ha ha. But what a great ride it was!
By Joe Hunt
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 18, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Gotten alot more polished in the past 20 years. Felt like a 10a in '91, way slippery-er now, like a 10c at least in 2011.

By Adam Stackhouse
Feb 18, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

One the better routes in this area (when we did it ca. 93)

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