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Penitente - Entrance Area
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Forbidden Fruits 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,683
Submitted By: Jared Brown on Jul 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Cruxxin it.

Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 MORE INFO >>>


This route goes up a large orange wall just off the trail about 100 feet past the Colors of Emotion wall. This is the third route to the left, past No Regrets and Whipping Post. Face climb up the face between two cracks. The climbing starts out easy, and steadily gets harder to crux near the top.


5 bolts to chains.

Photos of Forbidden Fruits Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Lanz on the 1st ascent.
Paul Lanz on the 1st ascent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Take a bite of "Forbidden Fruit"    You ...
Take a bite of "Forbidden Fruit" You ...

Comments on Forbidden Fruits Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 9, 2005

This route was put up by Paul Lanz sometime in the fall of 1988. Lanz feels that it he should have given it a rating of 11d, and is surprised that it still stands at 12a.
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 12, 2005

There is no excuse for not rating this 3 stars! There is not a better 12a (or 11d for that matter) in the canyon. It is freaking awesome. I'm not sure about the grade, it's been many years since I climbed it.
By C Miller
From: CA
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great climb with thin edging galore.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 29, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Pretty stout crux for 11d, I think 12a is right on. The climb may not be consistent 12 but the crux is definitely a stopper. Great route.
By Roger Rumsey
Jan 30, 2009

I have not been on this route since the mid-to-late '90s, probably about the time I seemed to "peak" in regards to my sport abilities. I never considered myself a solid 5.12 climber (especially on-sight). It took me several runs on it before I got it clean. Therefore, the 12a rating is/was (back then) probably accurate. I do remember being really proud once I got the sequences clean. "Ah, to be young again"!

If I got on it today, who knows how many tendons would pop!
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great route! A MUST DO for the canyon! In regards to Bill Green's above comment, the last link on the left chain is cracked through, so don't clip it. Pull another semi-hard move and clip the cold shuts instead. No super tweaky holds on this one (as long as you don't use the mono below the 3rd bolt).
By Alvaro Arnal
From: Aspen, CO
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yes, the last quickdraw hangs over a pocket for the crux move. However there's another, better, pocket 3 inches to the left of the pocket that's blocked which is just as easy to reach for in my opinion. I really enjoyed this route, and I think it deserves the 12a rating.

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