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Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears
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Forbidden Fruit 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Amy Ness, Myles Moser, Richard Shore 12/18/15 GU
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 637
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Dec 21, 2015

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Route overlay by MM

Description 

To the right of Adam's Rib, Eve's Wang, and God's Grace, Forbidden Fruit forges a line through the imposing black diorite band and onto the steep and exposed Southeast Buttress of Wells Peak. Brilliantly featured faces and thin slabs connect discontinuous but classic cracks right up the prow of the buttress. The route ends on the peak's prominent southern sub-summit, and is equipped with fixed belays allowing for a convenient descent.

P1) Climb flakes up the gully, then cut right onto runout but solid diorite (slick!) past a few fixed pins. Piton belay at the white pillar. 5.8 55M

P2) RF corner to knobby face, then follow embedded diorite rails arching out right past some bolts and a pin to a bolted belay. 5.10 50M

P3) A bolt protects entry into a long splitter finger-to-hand crack. Bolted belay on large sloping ledge to the right. 5.10 60M

P4) Face climb past a cool hueco and head left to a finger crack, then up easier slab to a bolted belay on a good ledge. 5.10+ 35M

P5) Thin face and slab past 6 bolts and a pin, working left to a bolted anchor alongside a big wide crack. Crux, 5.11 35M

P6) Tight flare with deep hands and fists, right past a bush and over a small roof. Bolt/pin anchor at a stance on the headwall crack. 5.9+ 35M

P7) Follow the hand crack until it peters out, then move left past 2 bolts and the final crux. Spectacular & exposed 5.fun above leads to a bolted anchor just below the top. 5.10 50M

Short 3rd class scramble up the tiny summit pinnacle.

Protection 

Doubles to 3", stoppers. All belays are fixed. To descend, rappel the route with 2 ropes. Pitches 4, 5, and 6 can be rapped with a single 70M. Bring extra throw-away cord for the anchors.


Photos of Forbidden Fruit Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cumbre!
Cumbre!
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the summit block, the Dream Team gives ...
Just below the summit block, the Dream Team gives ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Amy Ness following P6 of Forbidden Fruit on a free...
Amy Ness following P6 of Forbidden Fruit on a free...
Rock Climbing Photo: Forbidden Fruit IV 5.11. Topo by MM
Forbidden Fruit IV 5.11. Topo by MM
Rock Climbing Photo: Myles Moser leading P4.
Myles Moser leading P4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Headwall splitter, P7.
Headwall splitter, P7.
Rock Climbing Photo: Amy Ness leading the long and splitter P3 of Forbi...
Amy Ness leading the long and splitter P3 of Forbi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Myles Moser leading P2 of Forbidden Fruit
Myles Moser leading P2 of Forbidden Fruit
Rock Climbing Photo: The Southeast Buttress of Wells Peak, Wheeler Cres...
The Southeast Buttress of Wells Peak, Wheeler Cres...

Comments on Forbidden Fruit Add Comment
Show which comments
By karl kvashay
From: cedar city, utah
Dec 21, 2015

Looks most excellent! Done ground up on a short December day? Impressive!!
By Tony Lewis
Dec 23, 2015

Hand drilled 3/8"......Proud!

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