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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Farewell to Poodles T 
Astropoodle T 
Dangerous Poodle, The T 
Easy As Pi T 
For Whom the Poodle Tolls T 
Fusion Without Integrity T 
Head Over Heals T 
Mind Blender T 
Mind Meld TR 
Mind Over Matter T 
Mind over Splatter T 
Old Man and the Poodle, The T 
Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom T 
Route 182 T 
Space Walk T 
Suspect Rock T 
Unknown T 

For Whom the Poodle Tolls 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Randy Vogel, Darryl Nakahira, Marjorie Shovlin & Maria Cranor, 11/82
Page Views: 1,046
Submitted By: M. Morley on Sep 27, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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BETA PHOTO: For Whom the Poodle Tolls


Left of Head Over Heals lie two 5.9 "Poodle" routes, A Farewell To Poodles and For Whom The Poodle Tolls. FWTPT is a fun route; a little grainy, but worth doing if in the area. Bartlett gives it a "PG" rating, but I felt it protected fine. The descent down gully to climber's left involves a move or two of 5.3 downclimbing around a large boulder.


Standard rack.

Photos of For Whom the Poodle Tolls Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: About 1/5 way up
About 1/5 way up

Comments on For Whom the Poodle Tolls Add Comment
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By Randy
Oct 29, 2003

Don't forget the 5.8 Poodle route to the left of FWTPT, The Old Man and The Poodle.
By Woody Stark
Apr 23, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

We did this today, and both of us felt it was a solid 10a. Be that as it may, it was a very good route with excellent pro. Also, a set of slings around a good sized knob have been placed for a secure rap.
By BCramer
From: Prescott
Oct 15, 2009

Solid 5.9 line.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 26, 2013

I'm sure in some other decade I've done this route before. But much like Madonna, this last visit "feels like the very first time".

Enjoyable enough but the pro low is concerning enough I didn't lead it and was glad for that. Found A Farewell to Poodles neighbor to the right way more fun and easier to protect low. Absolutely both worth doing while in the area but heads up for your average 5.9 leader.
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Oct 12, 2015

A return to hardish lead climbing for me today(2015 OCT) crushed it, and having not led a Jtree .9 in a few years I still felt you had plenty of gear options down low. Having to commit for the first few moves is just part of climbing. My partner( a stranger and obvious sport climber) kept asking why no one had invented a 'stick cam' which I laughed and said I am sure someone has made one. Okay but seriously I LOVED this climb, and I agree compared to other .9 classics like Pope's Crack or Touch and Go its strikes me as being a little stiffer. The initial moves are definitely in the 10a range and makes the rest of the route seem super cruiser.
By Hand.jammin
Apr 4, 2016

Felt that it was solid J Tree 5.9, gear down low is marginal but good enough
By Harris G
From: Riverside
Apr 24, 2017

I accidentally did a variation on this route. I climbed straight up the crack just to the left of the actual route to the roof, got above it to where the crack widens and then disappears and traversed into the correct rack. A little cruxy here, but probably on grade.

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