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A. First Triangle
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For Whom the Cap Fits S 
Three Little Bats S 

For Whom the Cap Fits 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Josh Pollock, Adam Huxley, and Chuck Fitch, September 30, 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 425
Submitted By: Josh on Oct 3, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: The route from below.

Description 

This is another enjoyable face route that takes the left side of the First Triangle formation. Steep moves past bolts one and two lead to a ledge and a rest before the final face. The crux is moving past the final bolt and standing up to reach the anchors on thin, balancy holds -- it requires some thinking and a bit of hope-that-smear-sticks moxy. The route trends slightly right to the anchors, so when you lower off, you'll have a good chance to toprope the alternate roof starts down low.

Location 

It is on the left side of the First Triangle. The route starts around a bulge and uphill from the base of Three Little Bats, the righthand route.

Protection 

6 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of For Whom the Cap Fits Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The last three bolts of the route and the crux are...
BETA PHOTO: The last three bolts of the route and the crux are...
Rock Climbing Photo: A rope clipped to all the routes bolts.  You can s...
BETA PHOTO: A rope clipped to all the routes bolts. You can s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam on the FA.
Adam on the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh on the FA.
Josh on the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh before the crux.
Josh before the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh pulling out of the lower portion of the route...
Josh pulling out of the lower portion of the route...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck on the FA.
Chuck on the FA.

Comments on For Whom the Cap Fits Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Oct 9, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a fun little route. The crux is certainly above the last bolt at the top. It takes a lot of thinking to do it correctly. It is also a bit difficult above the second bolt. Josh knows I always say this, but this route could use some brushing of holds. I don't know why I always forget a wire brush when I think this of most of the routes on the upper Tier.
By Josh
From: Golden, CO
Oct 9, 2016

Glad you liked it, Jay. I concede that you're right, by the way - most of the Upper Tiers routes do need some brushing. I keep hoping that the routes will clean up naturally with traffic, but the Upper Tiers don't get enough visitation yet, and the lichen growth is heftier up there than on some of the Lower Tier routes. I also generally like to minimize the amount of cleaning so as to only remove the natural surface cover and vegetation where absolutely necessary, but I'm sure everyone's experience of these climbs would be better if they were a little cleaner. On this one, the easier middle section is lichenous, but the cruxier parts were naturally a bit cleaner. At any rate, I too will promise to remember a brush when I go back in. Cheers.

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