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For Whom The Bell Tolls 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Chris Grijalva
Page Views: 387
Submitted By: Tony Brengosz on Oct 2, 2013

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Description 

I believe that this is the hardest route at the schoolroom, and it is also one of the best. Unfortunately it doesn't get much traffic, so be sure to bring a brush.

Follow the crack through gradually more difficult moves as the wall steepens, until you're faced with a difficult move to a high undercling. Pull a few hard moves here, then keep it together on the totally botch-able slab moves until you reach the chains out right.

Location 

On the big overhung wall in the alcove, in between Spicy Tuna Roll, and Postmodernism.

Protection 

8 Bolts + chains


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By eric zschiesche
Oct 5, 2013

Hey Tony, Good Job on your send ( not positive, but it may be the 2nd ascent ). Nice to see some of the harder routes on School Room getting some attention and ascents. Cheers !!
By Tony Brengosz
Oct 5, 2013

I haven't sent it yet, but I think it would be the 2nd ascent. I've got draws on it, and gave it a pretty good scrub, for anyone that wants to take a crack at it. There's tons of great climbs up there, more folks need to get on them!
By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Probably not the hardest route at Schoolroom, but certainly a contender for the best. Love the "totally botch-able slab"description. Definitely done that a time or two.
By Tony Brengosz
Oct 8, 2013

What do you think is the hardest up there? Also, is there really a 12a sequence I missed on this?
By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Oct 10, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

12a thing was a joke, I guess, based on all your recent ratings like Suicide Rap, which crack me up, btw.

I guess the hardest depends on your style. Eric, it seemed, found this a bit more difficult than all the other 13s he put down, but he can speak for himself. For me this is even easier than Suicide Rap. I've always been under the impression that Rule of Three and I Got Stripes were the most difficult. I Got Stripes isn't too bad bad until you get to the final pinch move before the chains. I haven't, in a long time, been on the Rule of Three, so don't really know. Chris project at the basement, when sent, should be the hardest unless Curt's optimistic boulder problem goes down at the Night School Wall.

Regardless, I'm glad your psyched on it. As far as I know, if you put it down it would be the 2nd ascent. I pitched off the final crimp a couple of times going for the horizontal crack/jug just before the chains and never did return to put it down after all the effort I spent trying to get to that point.

I do think this is the coolest route on Schoolroom. Good on ya! I'm glad you're up there cleaning the cobwebs off of these routes.

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