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For Love of Mothernot 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 15, 2005

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Sweet but brief, P3.

State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>


This is a pleasant 2 of 3-pitch, less-than-vertical, climb located on the left side of the second buttress on Mt. Thoridin. It is characterized by a slab on a big flake/plate with a single bolt on P2. P3 goes up along the inviting, thin, R side of a flake to a two bolt anchor.

From about 50 ft L of the start to the CMC Route, look up & spy a lone bolt on a big flake/plate. That is the route's 2nd pitch. You can approach this via 2 methods. A. You can approach by following a L angling 3rd to 4th class ramp to a big tree. Or, B. you can approach via about 60-70 ft of easy climbing from the nadir of the low angle buttress to the L of the CMC Route to a treed ledge below the arête with bolts.

P1. From the nadir of the slab, wander up a low-angled, 5.6 crack/corner pitch to a ledge with trees and belay at a large tree on the R side of this ledge. 60-70 ft.

P2. Unless you are a slab aficionado, move L to a crack system, follow it up to the upper face, use long slings before you move onto the plate. Angle up & R to the bolt, clip, pull on delicate face (crux) to more moderate ground. Move L to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9. 130 ft A more direct, more runout version could be done picking a stiffer, straighter line up the slab.

P3. Move up to the thin, R edge of the obvious flake. Put in small aliens & wires and fire up this brief, fun flake-edge to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 85 ft. Too bad this flake wasn't 200ft long. You can continue to the top of the buttress on less-inviting terrain or rappel (80 ft & 130 ft, 2 ropes). 1.6 stars


Single set of cams to #3 Camalot, Aliens, wires. P2. gear to #3 Ccamalot, 1 bolt, bring Aliens. P3. #3 Camalot, smaller Aliens, wires.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Al approaching the bolt on P2, climbs steeper than...
Al approaching the bolt on P2, climbs steeper than...

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