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Football Fan S 

Football Fan 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
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Submitted By: Mark SLC on Feb 6, 2017

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Description 

One of the island's classics and not to be missed for anyone climbing at the grade!. Said to be Mallorca's best 8a.

Head from the belay platform up into the alcove and make a couple easy clips. From here several clips of some bigger pulls off amazing tufas and blobs, utilizing underclings, pinches, gastons and sidepulls.
A healthy runout leaves the tufa system and up and left off into the hole for the obvious rest. Recover here as you will need it!

Exit the rest, and get ready for the incredible headwall....moving up and right to more amazing tufas, then back left, making the first crux - a bigger move to a long ledge and a tenous clip. Probably 12+ linking to here. Launch off crimps to a deadpoint, sidepull, a pocket, crux left finger stab, pocket, and a powerful undercling take their toll as you make the final lunges for crimps and the finish hold. Expect to log some airtime here!

Brilliant! Hard to envision a better route by design. It really has it all for a limestone sport route.

Location 

Starts in an alcove and pulls out onto tufas. Look for the obvious hole half way up, between tufa systems.

Protection 

Bolts. Fixed draws often in place. Check them for wear as always. They were grooved out and sharp when inspected.


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