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Talking Headwall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Muppets T 
Big Balls S 
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 
Fat Bastard S 
Foops T 
Fortis S 
I Love Big Jugs S 
I Want a Big Truck T 
Leading Should Feel This Way S 
Little Balls T 
McMurray must be Castrated T 
Ne Plus Ultra S 
Pure Energy S 
Send Town S 
unknown, 5.10 S 
VROS Arête T 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Artz
Season: All year
Page Views: 2,036
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Dec 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: The red rope gives a pretty good idea of the route...


Great route with two cruxes. The first is pulling the small roof, don't worry though, they're jugs. The roof ticks in at 5.9. The second crux comes 15 feet above the roof, you just pick a crimp and go. Other than that it's the typical Talking Head Wall route, easy climbing at the bottom with some pumpy moves up top.


There is a large roof 50 feet right of Fortis. This line ascends the small crack in the roof and straight up to the anchors. It is the first line on the left side of the roof.


This is a mixed route with two bolts above the roof. Bring some small to medium gear for the rest. Ring anchors at the top.

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By BrianWS
Jun 10, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Bring a rack of c3s and c4s, but nothing larger than #.75. The roof is easier than it appears, but there is a definite crux on the overhanging face above. The gear and bolts are good, but there is a fair amount of sand and loose blocks up top.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Gear at the roof, gear between the bolts. Great line.
By TyrelJ
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 25, 2015

This climb can easily be done completely off the bolts (.75 BD C4 or X4 right above bolt 1 and black Camp tricam just under bolt 2), and I would at least recommend not using the second bolt. In my opinion, the second bolt is poorly placed, there is a small "ledge" right under the bolt and if you actually weight the draw clipped on it the biner will be loaded on it's side against the "ledge". Additionally, if the biner is loaded here it only takes a little movement on the part of the climber for the rock to open the gate on the biner.

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