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Fool's paradise 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Todd goss
Season: Summer spring fall
Page Views: 240
Submitted By: Hyrum j. C on Mar 29, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: The climb starts up in the beggining of this canyo...

Description 

This route is in deep shade and never sees sunlight so in order to avoid breaking holds i would advise waiting 3 days after rain for this thing to dry out. Also this climb has not seen much traffic so expect a few holds to crumble a little bit. Despite that this climb is tons of fun and hopefully since i am posting it it will see more traffic and clean up a bit.
Pitch 1.110' Climb a bolted chimney which has some exposed moves getting out of. Once you are out of the chimney the line traverses left through some easier terrain. this pitch is prolly about 11a.
Pitch 2. 100' About 11b, slightly less than vertical very balancy climbing fairly sustained throughout.
Pitch 3. 110' 11c Crux of the route is the first 3 or four bolts off of the belay, Very sequency balancy moves traversing left then up. loads of fun figuring out then goes slightly less than vertical and is sustained 11 climbing another cruxy sequence up after a couple more bolts then eases up a little bit before getting to the anchors.
Pitch 4. 110' maybe 11c-d really fun and scary. Has a lot of slopers on it and climbs past a couple bulges which is where some of the harder climbing is. This pitch is listed as a project in Todd Goss book. I went and onsighted it today though and it didn't feel too bad. Just a little scary in few spots.

Location 

West canyon. Park at the enclosure area and hike north out of the parking lot along the dort road for about 20 mins then when the area opens up a lot and you can see a canyon To the left hike to it. There will be some 4th class scrambling up a chimney which is not too difficult. Which then leads to a ledge which is a little scary to walk across but is safe and easy. Then you hike around the corner to the right for a couple dozen yards. The bolts will be on the left. There might be a tag on The first bolt. Its tagged cause the fourth pitch has not been done yet. Anyways hope you find it easily amd have tons of fun! This route is awesome!!! Rap the route with a 70 meter or if the fourth pitch tops out then you should be able to hike up and to the right of the top of the route and then down a slab and back down into the canyon.

Protection 

16 draws And a 70 meter rope. also wouldnt hurt to bring 1 or 2 alpine draws and a headlamp just in case you get off this in the dark.


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