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Fools Paradise 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Fo, Merridouche, Sukow
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 581
Submitted By: jonfoster on Mar 7, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: P1 circled in red


Worth doing if you're in the area. P1 stays shady later, but P2 gets sun several hours earlier than Mean Weener. Plaque currently says Fools Rush In. There's already a route of this name at the cliff, so this should be changed.

P1 - is the obvious, left facing corner on the left side of April Fool’s Wall. This corner is fairly distinct from the road.
Begin with slightly chossy rock that gets much better around the 20 foot mark. Follow the corner system ~100 feet to the top of the ledge. Chain Anchor

P2 - trends up and left off the ledge face climbing past a few drilled angles and bolts. A red C3 sized piece (or maybe a similar sized offset alien) feels pretty crucial for clipping the first bolt over the bulge. Then move left into the obvious crack system and follow it to the anchor on top of the next ledge. Some cruxy face moves plus some wideness towards the top of the pitch keep it interesting. Consider bringing some backup webbing for this anchor. You can rap this pitch with one 70meter rope. I don’t think a 60m will reach the ledge.

P3 – fairly short pitch. Aid up thin crack that gradually widens into free climbing terrain and ends at a bolted anchor at a stance below the wide crack.

P4 – get your wide game on. I mostly aided this on #5’s and 6’s. Ended the pitch fairly short due to waning daylight. I think you might be able to rap to the P2 anchor with one 70M.

P5+? Unclimbed. Wideness and loose blocks. Have at it if you want some more adventure.


Begins with the obvious left facing corner on the left side of the April Fool's Wall (see beta pic).


Pitches 1 & 2:
single set C3s
double set cams .3 - #3 C4
2 extra .75 & #1 C4s for
1 x #4 C4

If going higher, bring multiples in the green & purple C3 sizes plus multiple #5 & 6 C4s

Photos of Fools Paradise Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben on 1st pitch
Ben on 1st pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: April Fools Wall
BETA PHOTO: April Fools Wall

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