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Fool's Paradise 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pete Lenz & Doug Fuller
Page Views: 2,020
Submitted By: triznuty on May 15, 2005

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Nick Layton Sending Fools paradise

  • On private land. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Great 3rd pitch var. for Western Grebe.Climb up a good corner with a crack that protects well, pull the small roof up onto a slab that follows a bolt protected dihedral, pull another small roof onto another slab and up to a great ledge, then run up some more easy slabs to a 2 chain anchor shared w/Western Grebe.


    A cam or two for the beginning and maybe one for the upper slab and 5 bolts.

    Photos of Fool's Paradise Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Triznut 3/4 of the way up Fool's Paradise at the h...
    Triznut 3/4 of the way up Fool's Paradise at the h...

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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 11, 2016
    By triznuty
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jun 7, 2005

    Sorry, the description for this route was for the first pitch only. This climb does have a second one, which is worth doing if you're up on DOTM. 2nd pitch embarks upon the final slab which leads directly to the pine tree, sporting 2 bolts and gear for the anchors or a short bushy down climb to the beginning of the pitch.
    By tenesmus
    Oct 30, 2005

    This is a fun way to get up to Dark of the Moon.
    By Tea
    Mar 23, 2006

    Second pitch off the final ledge is good..though I am sure not climbed expect a little rice.
    By Nathan Fisher
    Jun 10, 2006
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    1st pitch was fun, but the real excitement came from pitch 2, which is the 2nd set of bolts from the west. I believe the 2nd pitch also had three bolts. Set up slings around the tree for the anchor, and continue up to the chains. Also, the rappell off requires 2 60-meter ropes. 2 50 meter ropes are a bit short and require some down-climbing, and there is a knot-grabbing dead tree on this rappell. Watch it.
    By tenesmus
    Jul 23, 2006

    Steve is right about being a good pitch for a beginning .10 leader. Really fun moves in the middle part of that shallow dihedral. Edges and smearing everywhere.
    By triznuty
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Sep 25, 2006

    There are two ways to do this pitch (1st pitch)... One is pulling the roof of the curving dihedral onto another slab just below the big ledge with the tree -- This is done after the 4th bolt. There's a bolt just over the roof. Clip it and head up. The other follows a couple more bolts out right and then meets up by the tree.

    Not sure which is the direct and which is the variation..? But both ways are good choices for this pitch. One offers a nice little roof, while the other keeps to the slabbin.
    By triznuty
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Sep 26, 2006

    Me thinks the pitch marked as DOTM in the Ruckman's Guide, is really the 2nd pitch of Fool's..
    By PeterSLenz
    From: Salt Lake City
    Oct 3, 2010

    Hi Guys and Gals,
    Many years ago, Doug Fuller and I (two climbers of little talent inspired by the late, great Bill Robins) wanted to try our hand at bolting on lead, and drilling by hand. We also wanted to create routes we could do when we were old and decrepit (I'm almost there, now.) The results were Why a Duck and Viaduct (which the guidebook correctly terms, "contrived,") and also Fools Paradise. If the latter seems overbolted, I apologize.
    The profusion of bolts reflects our desire to create a safe route, and also my indecision about where the route was going (over the roof vs up the slab.) Each bolt required 20 or so minutes of hand drilling. Once the hole was started, I could stabilize myself with the drill bit serving as a "hold." None of it was rappel bolted, and the climb was near my leading limit.
    Pete Lenz
    By Craig Martin
    From: Park City
    Nov 4, 2010
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Shiny new 2 bolt anchor with chains found at the base of Fools Paradise on 11/3/10. It is aproximately 15' from the anchor at the top of Western Grebe 2nd pitch. Does anyone know how long it has been there? Is it a replacement of an old bolted anchor?
    By Sir Camsalot
    From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
    Nov 4, 2010

    Probably another convience rap anchor. It used to require 2 ropes to rap from the top of Fools Paradise / Western Grebe. I climbed it late spring and the anchor wasn't there. Not a bad idea as this was the only pitch on those link ups you needed 2 ropes to rap.

    Looks like these aren't the only new bolts going in up here. I honestly didn't think this area could be any more overbolted than it already was.
    By Craig Martin
    From: Park City
    Nov 4, 2010
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    You still need 2 ropes to rap from the top of the 3rd pitch of Western Grebe. This new anchor changes nothing in that regard.
    By Sir Camsalot
    From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
    Nov 4, 2010

    Then WTF? Man this is getting bad.
    By Garrett C
    From: SL,UT
    Oct 26, 2013

    Can anyone offer some insight to getting to the anchors of this climb? We got to the last bolt above the roof but no chains were in sight. Do you keep running out the rope by going north up the shallow slabs?
    By Sir Camsalot
    From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
    Oct 27, 2013

    Straight up the easier slabs, maybe 50 feet. Anchors are there but you need two ropes to rap from this point.
    By Luke Douglas
    Oct 27, 2013

    Yep straight up til you hit the anchors. You can plug a few pieces if you want. There are now rap stations everywhere. A 70m gets you down easy and a 60m should work just fine.
    By Garrett C
    From: SL,UT
    Oct 27, 2013

    Ya just wasnt sure as line was so closely bolted then randomly stops and was unable to see any sort of direction to go in. Definitely lots of rappel stations it seemed, chains all over the rocks around this pitch.
    By Boissal
    From: Small Lake, UT
    Apr 11, 2016
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Craig Martin wrote:
    You still need 2 ropes to rap from the top of the 3rd pitch of Western Grebe. This new anchor changes nothing in that regard.

    Now goes with a single 70m via a few new anchors...

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