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Fool's Mate 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Kurtz on Apr 25, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Start of Fool's Mate

Description 

An intimidating, old-school 5.9 that deserves more traffic. The moves are interesting and varied. Excellent rock quality (for Cathole).

Climb up to the overhang and try to figure out the crux (next to the first overlap) before you pump out. Catch your breath and follow the crack past the other two overlaps, then step left and continue straight up the finger crack and varnish to the top.

Location 

The obvious crack on the right side of the Phantasmagoria roof, just right of three distinct overlaps. Walk off left (or right).

Protection 

Standard rack to 2". Trees at top suitable for TR but you need long static or webbing.


Photos of Fool's Mate Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Fool's Mate.
BETA PHOTO: Top of Fool's Mate.

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By Kurtz
Apr 25, 2014

I don't think this route gets the attention it deserves. Much better than Mind Bender Direct IMHO.
By JIncillo
May 2, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Old school 5.9 would be right. My guess is years of freeze/thaw cycle may have changed this route. The start to this thing is no easier than a solid 10. Brought my rack thinking I would lead it. The first safe piece of gear is close to 20 ft off the deck. After that the gear isn't so bad, but after the choosy middle section it is very sustained climbing on the second face.

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