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Fun reachy moves lead to easier climbing.
Located in the New Middle Earth (left side of Middle Earth). First route you come across when approaching this wall. When climbing you'll know you are on the right route when you see the pressed metal tab attached to one of the bolts that says "Fools Gold".
3 bolts. Rap anchor.
By Sean Haney
Dec 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun, balancy, side-pull-tastic. I tried climbing the dihedral to the right, and it goes at ~5.7. The crack looks great and takes plenty of gear, but the right side sounds hollow. The crack also runs out at the top, so I moved over to a bolt on fools gold. Would be a 3 star MG route if it was 3x as long. But it could be a good way to set up a TR on fools gold if you feel good about trusting the hollow sounding crack.
By Michael Lagueux
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 8, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This route is REALLY FUN and well-protected. The crux is right at the start. You should climb it!