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Fool's Gold 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tim Anderson 2005
Page Views: 465
Submitted By: Laura Hahn on Nov 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Private Land MORE INFO >>>


Left most sport climb on the right wall. Hardest of the three


Left climb of the 3 sport lines
Descent: Lower; walk-off



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By Tim Anderson
From: Acme, PA
Nov 3, 2009

NOTE: This climb originally stayed on the bolt line up the arete proper. Hence the 5.9 grade. The vegetation and lichen to the left is now gone and has revealed much better (bigger) holds. Most folks now move left around the arete to the slab and much easier holds. If climbing this var. The grade is more like 5.6 This is not the worlds easiest 5.9.
By Nate Gilbraith
May 21, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I find this route a little bit confusing. Once you reach the ledge at ~10ft at move left onto the arete, the climb is quite easy. For me, this is true even if I climb directly under the bolts (maybe I use feet that were originally covered in moss?).

On the other hand, has anybody went up the face to the right of the bolts? I played a little bit on this and it seems thin and boulder-ey, but potentially do-able.
By Pete Baertsch
From: Connellsville, PA
May 22, 2015

Obviously the pure line is the easiest way possible, which you are entitled to think is easier than 5.9. Staying right of the bolts is an eliminate and has been done before.

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