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Motherlode Rock - East Face
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Belleville TR 
Black Bart S 
Blasting Cap S 
Cap Gun T 
Dust in the Wind T 
Fire in the Hole S 
Fools Gold T 
Golden Gloves S 
Golden Nugget S 
Lodestone S 
Motherlode S 
Out of Our Mines S 
Psychedelic Sluice T 
Shantytown Swing S 
Wildrose S 

Fools Gold 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Rick Shull and Chris Miller, 1989
Page Views: 1,799
Submitted By: Dave Daly on Aug 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO: Fool's Gold (with Variation) 5.6 Trad


This often missed crack climb is actually fairly decent. Although the initial section below is a bit contrived, the upper moves on fairly steep rock make up for it. Enjoyable moves as the crack thins out near the top.


Fools Gold is located 10' right of Fire In The Hole and also signatured by a block 15' up from the start. Tread lightly around this block!


Pro to 1". Small nuts or green Alien helpful in the thin section of the crack. Chained anchors shared with Golden Nugget.

Photos of Fools Gold Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fools Gold (5.6), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Fools Gold (5.6), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

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By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 6, 2012

Easy, crack protected face/jug climbing. Maybe one optional handjamb thrown in. Small mastercams and nuts were helpful. Saw placements for .75 and 2 camalot also, if needed to sew it up.
Easy way to TR the adjacent 10s.
By Dave Kos
From: Temecula, CA
Aug 18, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The climbing is OK, and this climb would be a good little exercise for a new trad leader since there is plenty of pro and easy stances to place it.

(Be careful about being too confident after leading it though - it's pretty easy for a 5.6)

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