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Fools Gold 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Steagall Kevin Sandefur Chris Werner Dave Sobocan
Page Views: 3,315
Submitted By: 46and2 on Aug 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (150)
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Josh going for it on Fools Gold

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Really fun route with a crux right after clipping first bolt (somewhat difficult clip at second bolt). Seems like an aweful long ways to the third bolt but the climb is a tad bit easier going here. Move toward the huge hueco at the top and pull the really fun bulge to finish out; really fun route!!


This is the last route on the left wall (East FAcing) in the upper section of the Black Corridor, can't miss it!


5 Bolts will have you seeing the chains on top for your rappel.

Photos of Fools Gold Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob on Fools Gold
Bob on Fools Gold
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew leading Fools Gold
Andrew leading Fools Gold
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the flake to Fool's Gold 10b
Starting up the flake to Fool's Gold 10b
Rock Climbing Photo: Me between the first and 2nd bolt on Fool's Gold 1...
Me between the first and 2nd bolt on Fool's Gold 1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the belay of Fool's Gold.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the belay of Fool's Gold.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy reaching for sun at the top of Fool's Gold.  ...
Andy reaching for sun at the top of Fool's Gold. ...

Comments on Fools Gold Add Comment
Show which comments
By Caleb Phillips
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2010

Assuming this route is the one I think it is, a bolt near the top (4th?) is missing a hanger and leads to a long scary run-out (although, on 9ish terrain).
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 10, 2011

Scary up top from what I remember. Seemed like far falls were going to be the norm if it came to that.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Jun 13, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Bolt in hueco still missing a hanger. If solid at the grade it's not a big deal, almost makes you feel like you're not sport climbing in the corridor for a minute. Wonderful route, a must-do.
By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
May 26, 2014

Fantastic route. Ideal warm up. Felt it was well bolted. A reachy crux down low leads to easy, incredibly fun climbing through Huecos. Soft for grade.
By Chase D
Feb 4, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree this route felt a bit soft for the grade but it's still one of my favorites in the Corridor.
By Crimpanzee
From: San Francisco, California
Jan 10, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Did something break here? This is a super reachy route if you're short. I had to basically dyno to the ledge, and the moves above the ledge are also super reachy. You will hit the ledge if you fall from the second bolt as a warning.

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