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4. The Buttress
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L to R R to L Alpha
Buttress T,TR 
Chimney, The T 
Fool on a Hill T,S 
Nose, The T 
Watusi T 
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Fool on a Hill 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,865
Submitted By: Rich Brereton on Nov 9, 2011

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This shares the corner start to Tarzan but then cuts right past two bolts and thought-provoking face climbing. The crux is past the first bolt. It is a sweet climb.


Begin up Tarzan corner, then step right at 15 feet height to clip the first bolt. Pass a second bolt to two-bolt anchor on sloping ledge. A bonus toprope climbs straight up to the anchor from a start right of Tarzan corner (5.9+).


Two bolts, several finger- to thin hand-size pieces, two-bolt anchor with rappel chains.

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By losbill
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Look for the slotted nut placement once you reach the ledge with the chains to your right. It will make things a lot easier on your second if they peel off the crux move after unclipping the second bolt. The top rope line straight up just to the left of the chains is significantly harder than 5.9+. If you utilize to your left the crux layback moves of the The Fool it is only 5.9.

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