REI Community
Mary's Bust - main buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broadmoor, The S 
Brown Palace, The S 
Convolution S 
Deceiver S 
Disneyland T,S 
Dynamite S 
Fool Me Twice T,S 
Frisky Lady S 
Just in Time S 
Lie Detector S 
Mary's Jugs S 
Mary's Tricks S 
Maternal Damnation S 
Moon Shadow S 
New Direction T 
Open Road, The S 
Out Of Time S 
Proud Mary S 
Stuck In Time S 
There's Something About Mary T,S 
Violet Blue S 
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Fool Me Twice 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett, 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: year round (afternoon in summer)
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Bernard Gillett on May 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Route C is the line.

Description 

Fool Me Twice is an extension to Deceiver that links up to The Brown Palace. I thought it was a very enjoyable pitch.

1. Climb Deceiver (5.10-ish) to its rappel anchors. An easier approach utilizes the first half of the first pitch of The Brown Palace, at which point Deceiver is followed (5.7).

2. Move right from the belay to a shallow, left-facing corner (3 bolts) and then use RPs (and/or an optional cam out right) to protect an easier stretch to a bulging headwall. Pull through the crux bulge protected by small cams and wires (5.11c), and then angle up right along a small, angling corner with tricky climbing (5.11, 4 more bolts -- the last two bolts are shared with The Brown Palace).

Rappel twice from here, or continue to the top of the wall via The Brown Palace.

Location 

Deceiver begins near the left side of the main road-facing wall, and Fool Me Twice adds one pitch to that route.

Protection 

Small cams to #0.75 Camalot, a few small wires to 0.5 inch, RPs, and about one dozen QDs. A couple long slings will be useful to manage rope drag. I doubled up on #0.4 Camalots at the crux moves -- not a bad idea given the slab below.


Comments on Fool Me Twice Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
May 7, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Pretty tenuous over the bulge!
Never used the 0.4. A blue Alien was the key piece for me.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About